Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not tell us the name of the workshop so if one of us go in there we can ask for them to do the work and not a contractor? Saves us money as well.

I need to stop being lazy and fab shit up for my car... And Force Feds. When he gets his ass down here.

MHE are usually pretty good and old Ben, if he is still at Mackay Alloy, is amazing on the alloy TIG.

AluFab (or AIS I think it is now) do some great work as well. Dad had them make a new piece for a fender made and it was a great quality product they produced, just by having the damaged one as a base to.

i herd ashton is alright haha... nah if i need anything done ill either do it myself or let my old boy do it, he goes alright with a flint rock

Ashton is by far one of the best. Pity he doesn't do the performance stuff anymore.

Never seen someone so quick, accurate and neat.

Oh and dyshonest - I think you stuffed up there, you've bolted the turbo onto the wrong side...

Edited by The Mafia

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha haha!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh mafia how you make me laugh, dont stop these great post your doing. you are joking righ? wrong side oh your killing me ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!!!!!! YEA DYSONEST YOU WANKER GET IT RIGHT ha ha ha ha :domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...