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Also, Dan... Any idea if the 34 GTR cas is better than the 32-33 GTR items?

As far as i know to swap over to it would require switching 2 pins or so over either at the cas plug or ecu

Or does it still have the jumping wavelength at high rpm?

The drive gear on the end of the Cam Shaft is different on the R34 CAS is different to the the R32 and R33 so if you want to run a R34 CAS on a R33 Engine you will have to but a R34 Exhaust Cam in. I have ran into this problem many years ago when I was new to RB engines and I had a R34 GTR N1 NUR engine in my R33 GTR and I ordered a set of Tomei Pon Cams for a R33 GTR i had to exchange the exhaust cam for a R34 GTR item. As for the CAS i don't think there is much difference, I have never had a R34 CAS apart. We run a Modified R32 CAS on the drag car to work with the Crank trigger.

Yeah they keyway is different, cams can be modified to take either without issue apparently, but would still just order one for a 34...

It's just the nitty gritty of them ecu side that I wanna know about really.

crank trigger may happen one day.....

cheers for the input anyway!

when are you getting a lib box? :P

Edited by Force Fed

Yeah. I had the same idea for Time Attack. I was only going to do the Lakeside/QR courses... But I started buying too big of everything. Now all I can do is Drag and Track Days/Powercruise. Haha. FML.

Ah ya big girls blouse more power = more fun at the track. I wanna take the R32 GTR down to QR before it gets it make over and becomes completely unless for track work. I think it would go really well with that engine setup, car is not laggy at all the T62R is a awesome turbo. With the Vipec i would ramp the boost up through the gears 4th and 5th gear would be like 33psi and say 1st would be 23psi. Having 1000awhp down the main straight would be f**king insane.

This is how efficient the HKS T62 turbo is:

At 23psi lowest setting = 700 rwhp

At 27psi = 800awhp

At 30psi = 900awhp

Estimated 33-35psi should = 1000awhp.

Now we have never run the car on the dyno with anymore than 30psi so we have never seen a 1000awhp run of this car at the dyno but at the Jambo when the gearbox broke the car was running 33-34psi boost which would have broke the world record on. Car ran a 8.97 on 30psi boost, with the psi vs hp trend 33-35psi should be 1000awhp the engine safety margin is 36psi anymore than that the engine life expectancy will be dramatically shortened. Next time the car goes to Brisbane for a tune I want a 1000 awhp dyno run sheet printed out so i can be in the 1000hp club lol.

when are you getting a lib box? :P

With all the new parts going on the car and its massive diet we want to try a prove to them NSW pricks that we can break RH9GTR world street tyred record of 8.47 (which he runs a auto box anyways). Hopefully we can achieve this and officially be the Fastest street tyred GTR on the planet that is the aim for the PPG Manual Box. If we achieve this then next step will be liberty box and 7sec will be new target.

Haha. Yeah, I agree with you about it being more fun. But my lag will be the mechanical fault behind lap times in a TA situation. So I'll only be out there for my own records, haha.

Either way, all I want to do is beat my mates VT down Palmyra. Haha.

Cheers mate

We will not stop until we have that record :yes: . Next round of modifications is gonna cost us well over $10k. Its a never ending development on this car, every time we hit the track we pick up more and more things and find ways to improve the car so keeps us busy nearly a full time job I wish someone would pay me for all this work lol.

New round of mods to come:

- Full 4" titanium exhaust Turbo back saves about 13kg

- Full 50mm Titanium Screamer pipe.

- Carbon Fibre doors with Lexan windows saves about 50kg

- Carbon Fibre Strange Brakes all round saves about 30kg Rotational mass.

- Carbon Fibre Tailshaft saves about 13kg Rotational mass

- Aeromotive Mechanical Fuel pump saves a couple of kg's

- 8L fuel tank instead of the 40L one saves a couple of kg's

- Small Radiator setup saves more kg's

- Engine oil cooler getting removed saves more kg's

- Probably more that i forgot.

-

What are you going to do for box though? PPG has the inherent issue of going BANG trust 6 speed dog?

Problem is getting your power down without going lib or holinger.

Jealous of your spendings!

Are you going the hex / cam drive aeromotive item?

Edited by Force Fed

Chris: I was gonna run the 34 CAS in mine (I'm pretty sure they do the same thing in GTR's, switch from Mitsubishi to Hitachi for the R34's)

They are rebuildable from what I've found out and less likely to flog out the bearings. I've seen quite a few mitsubishi ones (including my old one, and think my new one is going the same way) that have had stuffed bearings, you can hear it when it rotates. My old CAS would only turn one way easily by hand and sounded horrible

I've gone for the mitsubishi again, but I ordered a new one from the USA. I'd go the Hitachi (newer type) CAS if you are willing to spend the money on Cams and CAS

GOOD NEWS!

The head I have now has matching Cam caps, so my Poncams spin freely now :)

Also seems like the cam tunnel is in a bit nicer condition (not that the other head was that bad)

Have fitting the head drain to the new one, so engine should be going forward now:

20121108_170453.jpg

I'm going to repair the old head, so if/when this works out I will have a stock head for sale just as a heads up for anyone who might want one in the future

To be honest rebuildable etc would be a nice thing to have CAS wise. But im more curious about the wavelength comparison. A guy in UK on a post a good 8 years or so old has mentioned his 32 came on and revved harder / faster with 34 cas.

Congrats Callan!!!!!!!!!!! about time, now to store all those cam caps away :P

Edited by Force Fed

The PPG box is getting another go we now have sponsorship from them so that helps things. The gearbox failure was due to a few things, mainly fatigue and the fact that we had the stock sandwich plate which also failed around the bearing housing and cracked causing shaft play. So to address this we now have a full billet OS Giken sandwich plate which is a lot beefier and PPG are looking at making the gears stronger if possible, we will also adjust the ignition cut settings as there were a bit harsh.

As for fuel pump still doing research on that.

haha nah have a plan for the 2 cam caps, just have to see if it works, will require minor machining

As far as I'm concerned the 34 CAS is a much better item then the mitsu one. I've seen how the mitsu ones work but havent had a Hitachi one apart

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11107-billet-hex-drive-fuel-pump/

That or the "atomic' fuel pump they do I reckon.

Awesome! Hopefully it holds togeher, even for 1 or 2 runs as that's all you need for the record!

Also, the coil charge issue on haltech's, still a problem on the Platinum Pro plugins?

Yeah, they only have a set coil charge time.

This means if you want LS1 coils or any other host of reputable replacements that require 5ms charge time, you can't use them. Sean explains it like this:

An engine at 6000rpm has 20ms between coil firings on one cylinder eg. Cyl 1 fires and 20 milliseconds later it fires again. The problem is the coil requires 5ms to fully saturate charge so there isn't enough time for it to fully charge again = MISFIRE!

So what do you do? You reduce the charge time. But not by a little bit, you have to come down to 4ms because at 7000rpm there is even less time to get it going.

Now this may/may not be a problem in 'some' of the platinum range (as we haven't tested all of them) but when you use them sequentially it's not so much a problem and when you use standard coils it's not a problem at all because they only require 2.5ms to charge.

We are still finding problems with the platinum coil charge time dropping when you mash the throttle though ie. when you go from idle to full throttle or cruise to full throttle quickly, the charge time drops out the arse and it hesitates or misses.

Also, Dan... Any idea if the 34 GTR cas is better than the 32-33 GTR items?

As far as i know to swap over to it would require switching 2 pins or so over either at the cas plug or ecu

Or does it still have the jumping wavelength at high rpm?

Rob :P

You couldnt punch anything unless it were a 'donut'

They all have it. It's the same sensor and disc. It has to do with the belt and sensor inside. Crank trigger is the only way to be able to fix it 100%

No idea, I have avoided Haltech like the plague after the issue they had with the E11v2 dropping the tune, and Haltech refusing to fix it.

Return the ECU with a hole drilled in it? No thanks. That's just shitty after sales service.

Them refusing to fix it isn't the only problem. They don't back up their old products. If you take a link G3 to link and tell them it has a problem, they fix it. They offer support and whatever.

The tech guy from Haltech actually said this to me 'The E11 is shit. Even we think it's shit. Upgrade to a Platinum and you won't have these issues'

:huh:

You'd think they would at least have SOME love for their old product. After all, some dealers are still selling them and it was only about 1.5-2 yrs ago they even released the Platinum from memory. E11's were still being brought to us up to a year after that - never used

I also asked them why their 'Pro' series ECU didn't support the fitment of a crank trigger. Their response was that if it didn't come out standard on the car, it wasn't covered on their plugin range of ECU's. So I said it's basically a Nistune with a couple of extra inputs and outputs. He was offended by that. But what's the reality? What's 'Pro' about that?

They told me their ECU's don't have the timing fluctuation problem so we don't need a crank trigger. We were fitting a trigger BECAUSE it had that problem.

To have a crank trigger setup you need to use their Sports model which is a full wire in.

I asked them why they didn't offer full adjustability in both models so people could do what they needed to and they said it was to reduce the support requirement. Fact is, if they don't give you all the extra bits, you won't ever (ever) need them so they don't ever have to provide support to you....ever

The PPG box is getting another go we now have sponsorship from them so that helps things. The gearbox failure was due to a few things, mainly fatigue and the fact that we had the stock sandwich plate which also failed around the bearing housing and cracked causing shaft play. So to address this we now have a full billet OS Giken sandwich plate which is a lot beefier and PPG are looking at making the gears stronger if possible, we will also adjust the ignition cut settings as there were a bit harsh.

As for fuel pump still doing research on that.

Should go with the Liberty air shifter mate. You'll go faster than ever

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