Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a bad list Sean, quite a lot of money for bugger all gain as with any VQ35, and that is why i sold my 350Z was gonna cost too much ....the $ vs HP gain. Full Exhaust, Intake and Flash tune will do wonders for your fuel economy on that engine, and give it a good extra 20-30kw. Need some JDM in ya face deep dish rims would set that car off nicely. I've got a nice set for ya but your will need wide bodykit ;) .

180SX Project is going full steam ahead now, I want the car ready for 2014 WTAC Open Class and Drift it as well. Working out a list of parts I need to be competitive and not do it half arsed.

So far:

-Hypertune Plenum

-Hypertune 3" Throttle Body

-Hypertune Fuel Rail

-Powered By Max full Suspension Catalogue under it.

-Wilwood 6pot Brake 355mm Front

-Wilwood 4pot 330mm Rear

-Tilton Adjustable Pedal Box

-Wilwood Bias Valve

-Wilwood Dual Hand Brake Caliper

-Vipec V44

-Mazworx Dry Sump Kit (Maybe)

-Massive Aero Kit Custom Made.

-Fuel System out of R32 Drag Car

-Bride Zeta III Seat

-Cam Spec roll cage

-New Engine when this one shits its self

-Custom Titanium Exhaust 3" Side pipe

-Custom Titanium Screamer pipe aimed out the bonnet :woot:

-Massive 305mm Semi Slick tyres Rear.

Gonna be mental can't wait

180SX Project is going full steam ahead now, I want the car ready for 2014 WTAC Open Class and Drift it as well. Working out a list of parts I need to be competitive and not do it half arsed.

So far:

-Hypertune Plenum

-Hypertune 3" Throttle Body

-Hypertune Fuel Rail

-Powered By Max full Suspension Catalogue under it.

-Wilwood 6pot Brake 355mm Front

-Wilwood 4pot 330mm Rear

-Tilton Adjustable Pedal Box

-Wilwood Bias Valve

-Wilwood Dual Hand Brake Caliper

-Vipec V44

-Mazworx Dry Sump Kit (Maybe)

-Massive Aero Kit Custom Made.

-Fuel System out of R32 Drag Car

-Bride Zeta III Seat

-Cam Spec roll cage

-New Engine when this one shits its self

-Custom Titanium Exhaust 3" Side pipe

-Custom Titanium Screamer pipe aimed out the bonnet :woot:

-Massive 305mm Semi Slick tyres Rear.

Gonna be mental can't wait

What's your budget for aero look like?

The Dry Carbon Wing i'm looking at getting is over $2K that's just wing no stays gotta make my own and Carbon front splitter is $1K. Rear Diffuser and shit like that i can make myself. I got awesome idea's for bonnet, front bar and skirts.

Not a bad list Sean, quite a lot of money for bugger all gain as with any VQ35, and that is why i sold my 350Z was gonna cost too much ....the $ vs HP gain. Full Exhaust, Intake and Flash tune will do wonders for your fuel economy on that engine, and give it a good extra 20-30kw. Need some JDM in ya face deep dish rims would set that car off nicely. I've got a nice set for ya but your will need wide bodykit ;) .

You'd be suprised, there is a few more engine mods i can do to gain more killerwasps like a plenum spacer & better intake.

I'm still on my greens for another 12 months so i can't go crazy, but i think i will sell the car around then or at least throw a Vortech on it i'm really not sure.

I've got the same wheels i was going to sell, i put them on the car and liked them again.

Lol how do you go from hating to liking again crazy. I had a HKS turbo kit for my Zed that was gonna go on, ended up in the too hard basket. Supercharger would be good for a street/everyday car, low down grunt and plenty of torque and 0 lag.

Haha i know it's weird but when i got them out of the box i was like ehhhh not sure i like them.. then i put them on the car and lowered it and i liked them again.

Yeah i have heard impressive gains from Superchargers on these motors with not much work needed to the internals and what-not.

The only turbo/supercharged cars i've ever driven are F6/GT/GT-P's when i worked for Ford but never a built turbod car like a supra or skyline. I can't wait to get on my opens.

Why not Ikeya or cusco etc gear over the PoweredByMax stuff? not the greatest gear you can get, especially when your list has some of the 'bigger' name brands on the go

I had the Full Ikeya Formula Catalog on my R33 GTR don't get me wrong they are good but they just ain't worth the money i'm not forking out 5k + again for suspension arms, my mate down the road makes his own suspension arms and components on his off road buggy i could get him to make me some custom chromoly ones and copy the ikeya arms on the R32 Drag Car but couldn't be bothered i'm gonna give the PBM arms a go have heard plenty of good feedback about them. The car is gonna weight as much as a shopping trolley so i don't have to go overboard with heavy arse gear, the brake package i'm planning on putting on the car is better than the Scorch Racing S15 and that beast has 800rwhp and that thing is insane. I just read the latest Super Street Mag has a article on it... very nice piece of kit i'm gonna draw my inspiration off it.

IMG6369-L.jpg

Haha i have a couple of flat brim hats in the cardboard, the car will be dual purpose Rob just a matter of swapping tires and geometry, just wanna build something crazy and over the top, all my ideas i've wanted to do over the years put into one car.

Big f**k off GT Wing check! Low as f**k check! Massive deep dish wheels check! Sidepipe Titanium Exhaust check! V-mount intercooler/radiator check! Fully stripped out no dash and one seat check! Front splitter and Canards that would decapitate someone Fark yeah check!

Drive it like i stole it and hang the hell on, if it doesn't scare the shit out of me every time i drive it, white knuckling the bastard the whole lap and my arsehole chewing on that Bride seat then i'm afraid i have failed this project lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...