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I just thought I'd add, I am thinking there are some small differences between the R34 manual and auto ECU's, besides the auto gearbox logic. I've noticed when slowing down, the revs will only drop down as far as 1200 rpm, then even when putting the clutch in they will stay at that level until the car comes to a complete stop - at which time they drop down to idle speed straight away. Might be to keep the torque convertor spinning or something?

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but may be worth adding that a proper R34 manual ECU is recommended. The car still runs fine but I just find it slightly annoying thats all :)

  • Like 2

hmmmzz, i got a PFC so i dont know that.

But anyone out there who did the conversion and installed a PFC...did you have your air con not working? my one doesnt engage the compressor...the PFC reads that the a/c switch is working...hmmmss its getting towards summer too :)

my TCS doesnt work, but that doesnt bother me

When i did my conversion i got the Manual ECU just for peace of mind, i even replaced the DIFF to a MANUAL one.

Only difference i felt was that the Manual ECU actually felt smoother when driving as in power curve

It seemed the AUTO ECU held back a lot of power, don't know if it was just me though

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

I have an r34 gt, 4 door sedan, Auto and im 99% of the way through my manual conversion and with putting the new clutch pedal in, I have noticed that the pedal is a lot higher up than the normal auto brake pedal and am just wondering is the r33 pedal that I have used a different length than that of a r34?

it doesnt bother me much, just an observation.

Cheers

  • 2 months later...

Just wanted to add, since my last post I acquired an R34 GTT Manual ECU and tested it. Appeared to be little to no difference between it and my Auto ECU. It's also worth nothing my traction control was also disabled (TCS and SLIP lights on the dash permanently) perhaps due to different sensors fitted to auto R34's.

So I've switched back to the auto ECU with no problems at all. But may play around with the manual one again soon.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I've too have done a manual conversion. I've got a PowerFC sitting at home waiting to be installedd and tuned. Just wondering how did you go with the PowerFC with the manual conversion? If you managed to fix the power how did you do so? Thanks in advance.

hey, the power fc works fine, its just that for some reason....my aircon and tcs doesnt work...would be helpful if u installed and tuned ur one...to see how it went..then i can see where abouts i need to look back

  • 4 weeks later...

Doing mine tomorrow morning - hopefully the clutch arrives in time should be able to get it out in a day

I'll lay out what my conversion has cost me so far and im fussy so I bought mostly brand new bits. Alot of people said why not go buy a manual 4 door first off. Well i looked for ages to find one with the Xenons still in it, importantly had to have a sunroof and the interior in mine is near perfect. Rest of the car is pretty clean except for a few little paint flaws but nothing major and there are little details I have put into mine also. And well when I bought mine manuals were still 16-17k plus with higher ks on them.......I bought this for alot less than that and in true skyline fashion hasnt missed a beat since!

Now I could have cost cut and bought a 2nd hand bits like the fly and got it machined but who knows the condition of it with cracks and heat marks. With all the cars I have built over time I have learnt to do things right the 1st time and spend that bit extra. I plan to do some track work when im home in this so instead of cheap skating and pulling the box out to replace a cheap clutch or other issues. And well if it was to shit itself early at a track meet after blowing $100+ for the day it would eat me up more knowing if I spent that bit extra I would still be out there cutting laps lol

Brand new Chromolly flywheel (10.5kg) - $440

Brand new Exedy HD Full face clutch with the highest rating clamp pressure plate - $620 express overnight delivered

Brand new clutch master - $100 (forum member)

Good 2nd hand Nismo gbox mount/Cross member and sandwich plate - $135

Found a complete manual conversion, Manual Dash that i robbed bits off to keep my original cluster (My dash has blue bulbs and the correct Ks) all 3 pedals plus rest and clutch lines - $200

All brand new Nissan bolts for flywheel, clutch plate, bell housing and other odds and ends - Approx $50

Low K R33 turbo box with slave, fork and other bits - $1200 delivered from interstate

Labour - Doing it at a mates shop paying for his hoist and shop time to be fair to him should knock it out quickly - Approx $200

So say around $3K. And it pays to shop around and do lots of research! Instead of buying stuff in a rush and forgetting, and with help from tutorials like this it helps.

Giulian

Edited by rb2534

Conversion done in 5 hours, started first go and no hassles at all.

My mate who helped me has done alot of skyline work, he reckons the box I got wasnt a 33 its a 34 one and has had the conversion for pull to push type done. Reason is some of the bols that in the front nose cone section were different, and well nissan woudl change the style of bolt head just on a few of the bolts. Also the rear housing was slightly different he seems to think and the wiring on the box was all white, not that traditional brown colour.

Even if it is or isnt a 34 box I dont care, the car drives totally different and feels 1000% better than the auto its totally transformed it. To anyone with an R34 auto I could not more than reccomend putting a manual in it and use this guide!

Giulian

I also have a R34 Clutch pedal and Master cylinder for sale, bought it then ended up scoring a whole conversion kit. $150 plus delivery for anyone wanting to tackle their conversion soon

Giulian

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