Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VL's have the RB30E engine or the RB20E engine. An easy way to tell the difference is to look at the throttle cable, in the 30's the cable comes right around the head and the 20's cable comes over top the plenum chamber. As for your question, i'd say the gearboxes do bolt up however im not entirely certain. i think the Rb20E 5th gear is of a differnent or shorter ratio aswell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140065-auto-to-manual/#findComment-2611050
Share on other sites

VL's have the RB30E engine or the RB20E engine. An easy way to tell the difference is to look at the throttle cable, in the 30's the cable comes right around the head and the 20's cable comes over top the plenum chamber. As for your question, i'd say the gearboxes do bolt up however im not entirely certain. i think the Rb20E 5th gear is of a differnent or shorter ratio aswell?

great thanks.. if any one knows for sure please let me know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140065-auto-to-manual/#findComment-2612495
Share on other sites

y dont u all just help the poor bloke out and answer his question

yes it will fit!!! i converted my mates auto rb20det cefiro last weekend and used the rb20e gearbox as it was spare from another cefiro we have that now has an sr20det in it

only NZ VLs had the rb20e as they had 1989 models, VLs stopped production in australia in 1988, so they got the leftovers

the R33 and cefiro also had the rb20e which weighed more than the VL, now that is useless, it would be sooo slow

hope this helps

cheers

brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140065-auto-to-manual/#findComment-2640480
Share on other sites

y dont u all just help the poor bloke out and answer his question

yes it will fit!!! i converted my mates auto rb20det cefiro last weekend and used the rb20e gearbox as it was spare from another cefiro we have that now has an sr20det in it

only NZ VLs had the rb20e as they had 1989 models, VLs stopped production in australia in 1988, so they got the leftovers

the R33 and cefiro also had the rb20e which weighed more than the VL, now that is useless, it would be sooo slow

hope this helps

cheers

brad

thanks man about time someone came to the party. what do you mean it be slow? and i take it i dont have to change the bellhousing or nothing? is it longer then the normal gts rb20 box?

Thanks for any info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140065-auto-to-manual/#findComment-2655236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...