Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellaz i just got told by someone that i can run series 5 rx7 injectrs in my rb20 without the hassle of the ballast reisistor re-wire, im assuming they need tobe the turbo ones, do they bolt straight in? any ideas on price? and is it possible? cheers fellaz

Edited by dead32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/
Share on other sites

there were three types of RX7 injectors, somethin like blue green and yellow. i think one of the would go straight in without wiring hassels, but cant remember which. from memory it was green and they were pretty rare, but thats from my very bad memory....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623592
Share on other sites

series 5 rx7 ones are red top top feed. I run them in my car (r32 rb30det) no probs with idle or atomisation. They drop straight in, and cost $350 a set (x6). They idle shitter on a std ecu remap though.

Rb25 wont run em as they need side feed ones.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623719
Share on other sites

no. they will not idle on a stock comp as you will be delivering double the fuel (270 vs 550)

after the injectors have been fitted and the K value has changed.

The stock settings are as follows:

K Value: 0101

injector lag time: 4C

The settings for 550CC are as follows

K Value: 007E

injector lag time: 5F

you will then need to change the

timing and fuel TP scales so they read the correct part of the map.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623779
Share on other sites

Jazza my 550cc rx7 injectors are as good as ANY 550cc injectors, and do the job the same as any other one would.

Merlin they are difficult to tune with ONLY when remapping the STD ecu. Not an issue on PFC.

People say they run poorly on skylines because because of the spray pattern. They are designed for a rotor.

Mine are in, and are tuned. NO idle issues, poor economy etc AT ALL.

They get 10Lt per 100kms, and are no different to any other injector.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2624000
Share on other sites

yep. nice injectors. i ran them with my autronic in my dr30 (rb26) they topped out at around 335 rwkw. with 45 pound base presure. ide was good and they just squese in the rail.

just gotta change the plugs to denso oval ones.

ive still got them im gona advertise them soon. x6 with plugs.

im running bosch 363 injectors now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2624191
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...