Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

without having intimate knowledge of the nissan auto, my guess would be it is the signal for the 'force motor'. this lowers transmission pressres and makes shifts smoother, and by cutting the wire, it sees none, shifting very hard. normally ppl just use software and set the signal to 0 but this is another way of doing it.

to make shifts smooth, the box just slips on the band, but when it bites hard like this, theres no slip, and less wear on the band, which actually means less wear and tare on the box, not more. in the case of gears being smashed, i dont htink this would happen, but thats just my opinion.....

now that i've said all that im probly wrong :P any gurus confirm this?

Edited by VB-

just did this to my car and attached a little switch to it. it seems fine ;)

it doesnt crunch and it doesnt ease onto the auto clutch plates, it just shifts.

im going to see how it goes for a few days, so far so good.

just took it for another spin. it really doesnt seem like its doing any damage.

it changes into 2nd as soon as i put it into 2nd. this would be very handy at wsid where you could lose up to a second from changing from 1-2 and 2-3.

ill report back soon >_<

You won't be putting overly too much stress on the box at all.

Although, sudden and hard shifts, whilst not slipping the bands, JOLT the bands and cause them to stretch.

But where your hard shifts are affecting, are the engine, not overly, but very silghtly, but you're putting ALOT more pressure through the diff/axles etc.

well the botom line is it seems to do the same thing as a shift kit yess?

hrmm i wonder if you could do it to a supra or sourer. to remove the mad fart noise on upshift lol.

im assuming you could, just locate the force motor, then cut the wire to it, or even put in a dash mounted switch, one for cruisin with friends, one for going quick. persoanlly i like the feeling of a shift kitted auto.. but yeah some people might not, and i guess it i actually owned a shift kitted auto i might get sick of it too....

  • 2 weeks later...

im pretty sure they dont have bands, the most likely damage to the box will be the clutches having the friction material delaminate, auto's tend to start slipping instead of breaking the gears, as the degisn of the gears make them very strong.

  • 2 weeks later...

does anyone know what wire should be cut/disconnected in a auto r32? all i know is that there is a loom connection(plug) in the engine bay for the auto but i am not sure if this is the correct plug to disconnect

this seems to do exactly what the valve body upgrade does. but because it doesnt retard timing anymore, does that mean ill need to dyno tune my car again?

with the new turbo it feels good. shifts are nice and quick, no more bouncing on redline before the gear changes.

ive got an issue with it not holding 3rd gear when you're off the gas, this will suck around a track. when cruising in 3rd, im used to the car holding the gear but with this mod it drops to neutral when i let go of the accelerator... but that i can live with.

also, does anyone have the wiring diagram for this section of the wiring?

  • 2 weeks later...

Of course they have bands. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission1.htm

What do you mean by not holding 3rd gear Joe? In my old auto the overrun servo wasn't engaging so that the revs dropped when you took your foot off the accelerator. It was still in gear and the engine could still drive the wheels but the wheels couldn't drive the engine if you know what I mean.

So after reading this article I still can't conclude whether this mod is good or bad for the box or engine. Information overload here!!!

Anyone else have any new thougths on this as I'm still not game enough to do the mod...but I'm becoming intrigued!

So after reading this article I still can't conclude whether this mod is good or bad for the box or engine. Information overload here!!!

Anyone else have any new thougths on this as I'm still not game enough to do the mod...but I'm becoming intrigued!

It will be a case of give and take...

By shifting harder it will transmit more load to everthing in the box and everything that follows it, but bear in mind it is going to excert far less load than slaming through a manual box.

With a manual box you are (with a decent clutch) shock loading the box by transmitting the load without a stally or clutch pack to soften the coupling to the auto box.

So if you drive train would hold up to a manual it will hold up to any shift kit you might add.

Contrary to popular belief a shift kit will save more parts than it will harm. Yes it will wear out some parts mariginal more like plantaries etc but it will reduce wear on others like the clutch pack / plates etc.

If the mod only boosts system pressure it should be fine as that is basically all a basic shift kit does anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...