Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just picked up my first Skyline yesterday (R33GTS-T series 1) and met my first little "issues". One of the easiest to fix was that when I closed the drivers door, the window glass would rattle around. I fixed this in about 20 minutes in like so:

1- Remove door trim by removing 3 screws at the bottom of the trim, removing the door handle surround (it just 'snaps' off with a bit of pressure on the side closest to the mirror), and disconnecting the power window plug.

2- Simply adjust the two glass guides using the two bolts (see pic) until they lightly touch the glass.

3- Run glass up & down, and open & close door to check alignment.

4- Replace door trim.

Too easy!

post-32450-1162696219.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141889-fix-for-rattling-window-glass/
Share on other sites

Sameo.

Both my windows in the 33 Rattle.

I was going to come searching in the next few days for a fix, might just do this next friday night before the Bathurst Cruise.

I like driving with partly open window, but the rattle was pissing me off!

  • 2 weeks later...

i just did it. will test drive it later. they seemed tight already, but i managed to get them a bit tighter up against the glass.

on the other hand, i just found out my drivers door has been replaced. it was previously red. :no:

Also, there is often the same bolts at the bottom of the glass, that clamp the window regulator to the glass.

Additionally, sometimes (prolly not on the Skyline) there is one more bolt for the frame of the window regulator on the inside part of the door. The part that closes to the b-pillar... roughly where the door-lock mechanism is.

Few more tips?

While you're adjusting those things, take them right out, and clean the furry pad... next time you clean your windows and wind them up and down, you won't get dirty streaks across the glass. (or if the pad is missing, you can replace it).

While the door-trim is off, have a look at the hangar part. Up inside the top of the doortrim. It hangs on the window ledge. The metal parts in the doortrim rattle against the metal of the door. Get some furry sides of velcro, and stick them on the metal parts that face the door. That stops more metal rattling sound.

  • Like 1

Be careful if you have tinted windows in that glass, i tightened mine up and scratched the tint when i first got the car.... i ended up loosening it back off and i just don't drive around with the windows half down :no:

I dont think mine is scratching the tint/glass. i moved the window up and down plenty of times while adjusting it.

maybe you need to replace the pads on yours.

thanks for the tips. hopefully no more rattles.

Does anybody happen to know how to adjust how far the window goes up?? my drivers window has all of a sudden raised itself up more than it usually would, which means when i shut the door with the window up the window hits the rubber seals around the drivers door frame and also hits the plastic center pillar cover thing, which is sometimes making it hard to close the door

Any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

I tried to get new furry pads.Noticed they were stuffed when we did the speakers.

Luckily one side has about 3cm left on it and does not rattle when door is shut.(Window down)

My biggest worry is some-one slamming the other door when the window is down.

Went to the wrecker and inspected all the doors to find you are unable to remove them because they fall apart.

The condition of the ones I looked at were no better than mine with somepieces missing or

about to fall.

Went to Nissan and was told the pads only come complete with metal brace.Cost $430 Approx for two.L and R :)

I can have a tool made for $300 and run 100 metres for $1 a meter and sell it to every-one in cut pieces.

Wonder if we can get enough people who would like to share the costs ?

I could design the thing to clip on rather than its poor channel design now.

Does anybody happen to know how to adjust how far the window goes up?? my drivers window has all of a sudden raised itself up more than it usually would, which means when i shut the door with the window up the window hits the rubber seals around the drivers door frame and also hits the plastic center pillar cover thing, which is sometimes making it hard to close the door

Any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

Sounds more like the whole pane of glass has gone lop-sided! :P

Might want to check the bottom of the window guides to make sure the bottom of the glass is fairly flush with the bracket.

  • 2 years later...

hmm just tightened this up on my 1996 Stagea RS Four V

Thanks for the pic and tips... could have figured it out, but it's just helpful to have a hint when pulling off clipped items -- gives more confidence that it won't break off.

The noise/rattle is improved somewhat, however I noticed that even after tightening the mechanism still rattles when shut or on bumpy roads...

I found the actual window regulator arm is fairly cheap and has a lot of play.. also the front track has no wheel it's just two pieces of rubber..

So overall.. it's no "merc" but it's much improved.

Has anyone gone the "money-is-no-object" route and actually bought replacement parts for the window mechanism from Nissan, and is it any tighter when new??

Just curious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...