Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have one on my car also.

didnt really notice much of a difference but i havent tested it properly and still use standard coils

my plugs are gapped at .6 and ran up to 24psi with standard coils (no twin power).

tried running a .8 gap with the twin power but only up to 20-21psi but would missfire at high rpm.

might get a set of splitfires one day and try a 1.0 gap with 24psi

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

WELL, heres the preliminary results......

Charging voltage stayed exactly the same starting at 13.7 volts dropping out to 13.4 volts once the coil had charged, so the red wire into the HKS unit and the coils is just a power wire to run the module I guess

Charging amps rose slightly from 5.9/6 amps to 6.4 amps however dwell time remained unchanged as I expected.

The secondary burn voltage stayed the same at about 0.6kv and burn time remained a bit short at 0.5ms but basicaaly remained unchanged.

These tests were done at 17psi then we ran out of time, BUT will be doing high boost dyno runs tomorrow so will see what happens then and report to this thread. At this stage it seems the Twin power unit increases charging current slightly which MAY help misfires at higher boost settings but certainly makes little or no difference to your car if your engine is running OK and not misfiring to start with.

Mike

WELL, heres the preliminary results......

Charging voltage stayed exactly the same starting at 13.7 volts dropping out to 13.4 volts once the coil had charged, so the red wire into the HKS unit and the coils is just a power wire to run the module I guess

Charging amps rose slightly from 5.9/6 amps to 6.4 amps however dwell time remained unchanged as I expected.

The secondary burn voltage stayed the same at about 0.6kv and burn time remained a bit short at 0.5ms but basicaaly remained unchanged.

These tests were done at 17psi then we ran out of time, BUT will be doing high boost dyno runs tomorrow so will see what happens then and report to this thread. At this stage it seems the Twin power unit increases charging current slightly which MAY help misfires at higher boost settings but certainly makes little or no difference to your car if your engine is running OK and not misfiring to start with.

Mike

Good info so far.

I've only ever really seen the HKS box on cars making over 400rwkw as a base, so running a fair bit of power/boost/airflow.

I can tell you on my car I had all sorts of boost cut issues once I got over 19psi and to fix it I was having to gap my plugs down to as low as 0.4.

Since installing the DLI however I've never had an issue once and the plugs are gapped at the standard 0.8.

I don't know how it works - but it works for me. :/

I can tell you on my car I had all sorts of boost cut issues once I got over 19psi and to fix it I was having to gap my plugs down to as low as 0.4.

Since installing the DLI however I've never had an issue once and the plugs are gapped at the standard 0.8.

I don't know how it works - but it works for me. :bunny:

same here...had splitfires and plugs gapped down to 0.5 and was missfiring. Car would foul plugs getting from the pit to the startline at the track. Having to clear them during the burnout (sometimes affecting the quality of the burnout). Installed HKS igniter and plugs are back up to 0.8mm and never had a fouling or missfire issue since.

I can tell you on my car I had all sorts of boost cut issues once I got over 19psi and to fix it I was having to gap my plugs down to as low as 0.4.

Since installing the DLI however I've never had an issue once and the plugs are gapped at the standard 0.8.

I don't know how it works - but it works for me. :D

Dont bother trying to measure what it does ...They just flat out work a treat!!

Had plenty of Big horsepower cars with splitfires, CDI etc that miss when the boost is wound up...add a DLI and problem gone forever :)

Anyone who says it doesn't work isn't making enough power to notice the difference or has some other problem.

Never tried to work out what it does, don't really care to know...

Maybe just some HKS magic in that gold box...

cheers

Dont bother trying to measure what it does ...They just flat out work a treat!!

Had plenty of Big horsepower cars with splitfires, CDI etc that miss when the boost is wound up...add a DLI and problem gone forever :)

Anyone who says it doesn't work isn't making enough power to notice the difference or has some other problem.

Never tried to work out what it does, don't really care to know...

Maybe just some HKS magic in that gold box...

cheers

There is no magic in car electronics, it's either volts and/or amps.

Cheers

Gary

  • 2 years later...
WELL, heres the preliminary results......

Charging voltage stayed exactly the same starting at 13.7 volts dropping out to 13.4 volts once the coil had charged, so the red wire into the HKS unit and the coils is just a power wire to run the module I guess

Charging amps rose slightly from 5.9/6 amps to 6.4 amps however dwell time remained unchanged as I expected.

The secondary burn voltage stayed the same at about 0.6kv and burn time remained a bit short at 0.5ms but basicaaly remained unchanged.

These tests were done at 17psi then we ran out of time, BUT will be doing high boost dyno runs tomorrow so will see what happens then and report to this thread. At this stage it seems the Twin power unit increases charging current slightly which MAY help misfires at higher boost settings but certainly makes little or no difference to your car if your engine is running OK and not misfiring to start with.

Mike

Can you please continue The Alchemist!!?? Really interested as looking at one of these units to finish off my combo as I'm starting to blow the spark out as I'm starting to push 430rwkw at 25psi on an rb25. Please finish!

Can you please continue The Alchemist!!?? Really interested as looking at one of these units to finish off my combo as I'm starting to blow the spark out as I'm starting to push 430rwkw at 25psi on an rb25. Please finish!

I have another post on this forum about what happened ab0out a month ago...the HKS unit randomly shit itself while I was driving at 50km/hr stalling the engine. I found the problem quite quickly as the smoke was let out!!!

Unpluged the harness and plugged in the factory loom and I was away again.

Base at work we pulled the unit to bits to have a look at what makes it tick.

Basically it has a row of 6 transitors/caps/ resistors on a board that triggers off each ignitor trigger for each coil. This is connected to a large single 400V cap that is charging of the power wire to the unit, a magnetic coil unit similar to a ignition coil which either absorbs the current dump when each ignition coil fires or stores up energy to be realeased thru the 400V cap when it fires. Finally theres a couple of timer chips and power transitors and a little power supply board in there to run the thing. Its very well made and well designed to jam everything in such a small unit.

The compenent that failed was a small surface mount resistor on one of the 6 trigger circuits. Unfortunately its full of resin which had to be carefully dug out to see what the problem was. Impossible to fix!

Basically I found that the engine at 360rwkw made the same power with or without the unit plugged in. Tested in house on our own dyno. Believe me I WANTED to see a difference!

What we did in the end to eliminate the miss was to lean the mixture out from 11.9/12 to 12.2:1. There was simply to much fuel/air for the ignition system to ignite properly > the HKS unit cannot fix this problem. I'm sure that at some stage you will need some sort of ignition amplifier but at what that point is exactly I'm unsure as I have not reached it yet.

The most important thing you can do though is to insure you have an excellant power supply to your coils and I don't mean pull out a voltmeter and and proble it to check for 12V either. You need a good scope to probe the power supply during coil firing. If you see more than a 0.5V drop when the coil fires you have a big problem. My Car had 2V drop !!!!!!!!! Old wiring/relays etc ass up to resistance that costs in voltage. I wired up a new relay in the fuse box to run my coil power feed directly and I now have a 0.2V drop when the coil fires. Makes a huge difference.

Hope this helps...

Mike

Edited by The Alchemist
  • 3 months later...
The most important thing you can do though is to insure you have an excellant power supply to your coils and I don't mean pull out a voltmeter and and proble it to check for 12V either. You need a good scope to probe the power supply during coil firing. If you see more than a 0.5V drop when the coil fires you have a big problem. My Car had 2V drop !!!!!!!!! Old wiring/relays etc ass up to resistance that costs in voltage. I wired up a new relay in the fuse box to run my coil power feed directly and I now have a 0.2V drop when the coil fires. Makes a huge difference.

Hope this helps...

Mike

Hello Mike,

what did you excatly, to modify the relays and wire. I would like to do the same, but not sure how.

Thanks and best regards

vik

Hello Mike,

what did you excatly, to modify the relays and wire. I would like to do the same, but not sure how.

Thanks and best regards

vik

Get yourself a good 30A plus fused automotive relay and cut the +12V supply to the coils and connect it to a relay on pin 87. Run a high current wire from your alternator terminal and connect it to pin 30 on the relay. Ground pin 86, and connect pin 85 to where the coils used to get their +12V from (the loom). This allows much more current flow at the coil as there is less voltage drop across the length of the wiring in the loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...