I Want My Skyline To Rev

[illusiVe]

ok, so say for EG, i want response of a stock turbo, and dont need huge power. What would u suggest to get my engine to rev faster?

say rather than anything else.

Goal : to make engine rev like a fkn ferrari, fast response, response + rev

budget : $15000.

[J_Red33]

Manual R34 is 4.111, auto is 4.083.

Diff centres are interchangeable so if R33 GTST diffs really are 4.3 then that would work. Highway fuel economy will suck the higher you go though, actually economy generally.

R33 manual diff ratio is also 4.111 & more than short enough. If you make the engine more responsive from the bottom end, you will definantely not want shorter gearing than a 33 already has. 1st gear is only good for 60 & second for 100 & cruising at 100 in fifth still has it reving at over 3 grand. I've always thought if I can't find a six speed to suit my 33 I'll be trying for a taller diff as first is just so short that the stock engine can't spin up fast enough & it revs too high when cruising. If you shortened the gearing that would only make it worse, not to mention fuel economy also goind down the drain.

You would also loose time in having to do more shifts to get to the same speed, not worth it IMO.

Do all the other engine mods & it'll pull like a train in any gear anyway.

Edited November 14, 2006 by JazzaR33

[Roy]

Whats touge?

[illusiVe]

Whats touge?

not so legal mountain driving.

Edited November 14, 2006 by illusiVe

[r33_racer]

Real life Initial D kinda stuff like all the cool kids in sports cars in Japan do that you see on those dvds.

Dangerous but fun. Would give a really good adrenalin rush, I know i got one last time i did a hardcore attempt at Mt Nebo.

Edited November 14, 2006 by r33_racer

[Roy]

So how much money is going to realistically be spent so you can just lose your licence again?

LOL...Too-gay

Sorry, not answering you post...

[WazR32GTSt]

a high-flow turbo is just going to increase lag.. i would think that although you are chasing peak power, if its low-down torque you want then is this really the best option?

obviously things like lighten the car, and increase power are going to help, but if you are chasing specific things that are going to relate to low-down torque, maybe consider

- cam gears

- lightened flywheel + pulleys

- remove clutch fan and replace with thermo fan(s)

- responsive turbo

- aftermarket ECU: plenty of low-down timing and good AFRs

- if you are planning on running low boost, maybe consider stock intercooler for reduced piping? or a small FMIC rather than a huge core?

i don't know, just some ideas...

its obvious to say "just put on an exhaust and wind up the boost" but we already know that will make more power. let's help him get his low down torque.. i know personally (having an rb20) how a lack of low-down torque can kill the fun!

[predator]

yeah - rb20 definitely needs lowdown revs.. especially in an auto, you're waiting forever. That's why they put the 4.3 diff in it

speaking from experience with my current setup, rb25, with an rb20 box that has (I am pretty sure) shorter gearing than a standard rb25 box, short diff (4.3 - auto one), air con belt disconnected, and lightened flywheel make a fair difference. Mine revs like tits on a bull at the moment, and i haven't really done too much to it, it just happened that way - but there is the down sides as people have covered...

* it sits on 3000rpm at 110km/hr, allowing possibly a max speed of only 200km/hr. This is great for drag strip.. but not good for where you may need to have more than this speed (some race tracks)

* you get the 'rex buzz box' feel, where you're always changing gears and it's noisey as a mofo. It's fun in traffic, and makes the car feel faster than it is... but ultimately probably robbing usable power.

* the car can squirm like a bitch from 0-100.. even on near stock power levels like mine. You'll need good tyres and get the power to the ground. I know if I increase the power to the wheels too much, I'm going to have to go back to a more normal ratio.

Diff ratio change is probably the easiest one thing to give you what you want, and that is acceleration maybe than revs(?).. hell throw in an rb20 box and give me your rb25 one but be warned.

[Andi]

As alot of people have said, get rid of weight. Thats the thing that outright kills acceleration the most, you've already gotten rid of most of the interior so now work on the engine bits like lightened flywheel and pulleys, removing AC etc. If you're after response and purely response it might be wise to keep the stock SMIC position so upgrade to an R34 GTT unit or try find an aftermarket ARC or something of the same design.

And pretty much what else has listed and go for something like a GT2530.

[illusiVe]

i like my small intercooler, but never had aftermarket to notice lag differences.

ill keep the aircon in until end of summer.

[mokompri]

if you want the engine to rev 'faster', you need to reduce reciprocating mass, as you already seem to know. if you plan on rebuilding, lighter pistons and rods will help in that department, and an increase in compression as already mentioned too will go well for your power goals.

everything else has been mentioned

[Roy]

But... not trying to rain on anyones parade...but are you seriously going to rebuild a motor with lighter pistons, rods etc. Better cams etc all for 220rwkws??? Thats crazy! The std motor with a 2530 will make the thing as responsive as hell, throw somehting like a HKS Type S cooler on it with a good exhaust and tune and it will have so much response and torque it will be forever lighting up the tyres...unless you run a semi slick

...throw a carbon driveshaft at a car? Again all so you can just go out and drive like a nutter on a public strip of road??? Thats a lot of money, come time and your clutch is dead then sure throw a better flywheel in there, perhaps remove the clutch fan and install an electric thermo fan...but the turbo size and tune will make the thing way responsive.

Sorry, some of the suggestions being made make no sense to me. Even if you had lots of money to spend, i cant see the point of internal engine mods and gutting an R34 GTT. Get a Pfc and get it tuned, if R34s are like R33s then get an exhaust cam gear...and spend the money on good tyres and suspension.

Dont strip the interior or anything like that. Its a road car and you are planning on racing it on the road????? So a cage could be a great idea. If this is what you really want to do then i would buy a little S13 or something. That way you are not defiling a big dollar car, or on the flip side you are not going to write off or have confiscated your 35k R34.

[scathing]

That is true.

An S13, being inherently lighter and shorter, will be far more chuckable than an R34.

[mokompri]

but roy how else are you going to spend 15K to only make 220rwkw ?

the money has to go somewhere !..

in the end an opinion is an opinion, if he wants to do that, then let him be imo

scathing has a good point too, you could always upgrade to a silvia hehe

[Andi]

Roy does have a point, its going to be alot of money spent for just a few minutes on a public road.

I recommend selling the and getting an S2000 or Type R. Might not rev as quick as you'd like but theres no lag and it'd handle the twisties alot easier.

[Fry_33]

Just thought I'd throw this out there, I'm not saying this is a definite solution at all (so be nice ).. is there a slightly smaller turbo you could put on that would spool up quicker and suit this application? if he's not after huge power and just quick revs (possibly not huge speeds) then is this a possibility or is it just stupid and it'll run out of puff too soon?

[illusiVe]

Not saying ill spend 15k, unless its worth it

[BAMR33]

I wish I was a hardcore touge racer with a cf tailshaft and no other engine mods.

[rev210]

the path to money spending is faster for some and slower for others. $15k for instance is chicken feed for owning a modified car.

If you spend $2,100 on a carbon fibre tailshaft ( I can put you in contact with the organisation that does them delivered for about that) , consider that some multiplate clutches can cost more. You want a nice set of forged rims as well? Thats going to cost you more by a factor of at least 2 and not give you the same sorts of benifits in the same sort of magnitude. Although it helps with suspension and brake associated areas as well and is worth doing too.

Also consider that the improvements to overall drive feel (thanks to reduced harmonics), accelleration and reduced wear on gearbox and diff all come without any penalty in on-going running, including accellerated engine (and everything else) wear costs, like more power does.

Why only 220rwkw? Why not?

The cars bits and peices will last longer at that level than More than 220rwkw means more attention and cost to get the power to the ground and make the car generally more reliable.

I am quite confident that if someone builds a car around a target 220rwkw and invests dollars in maximising engine response and the other important areas of braking and suspension etc, they can have a car that will be very nice to drive around town (with full interior) and make other peoples cars who are focused on power, look rather slow around a track.

This guy is on the right track, he needs a little more info about what he really wants to do and it's going to be a very good car he ends up with.

[illusiVe]

I wish I was a hardcore touge racer with a cf tailshaft and no other engine mods.

very useful and helpful quote.

fine im using it as a reliable track car... who gives.