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well i certainly learned a hell of a lot about car audio in the last few weeks getting this system picked out and installed....

So its all done now - big thanks to craig at hornsby stageco who fabricated the mounts for both amps and tuned the system - and for all the good advice.

I ended up doing:

- sound deadened every inch of the big arsed skyline doors

- bought home made sub box with 2 x 12 type S subs and an alpine monblock amp.

- intalled HU / sorted wiring / added splits

- found out how shiaser the sub box was once it was in so ditched that and bought a factory one.

- bought new splits since the ones that came with the other gear were quite lame.

- splits needed amping to really pump, so ordered a pioneer 2 channel from bitaudio.com.au

- stage co installed both amps on a custom board behind the subs and hid all wiring and tuned it all

A few pics! yes i know its not super custom but this is just how i wanted it - other than opening the boot the car looks like its got bugger all gear in it :thumbsup:

web_stereo06.jpg

web_stereo04.jpg

web_stereo03.jpg

web_stereo01.jpg

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here are some pics from the deadening process.

I did the insides of the door skin, and also the door frame (the bit you can see). lots of layering and those pics were not the finished result, I put more under the joins of the trim and the door skin too.

the boot does rattle a bit, you can hear it from the outside - most of the rattle is the rear bar, but its inaudible from the inside. I might deaden the boot lid too soon.

web_stereo_dead03.jpg

web_stereo_dead01.jpg

web_stereo_dead02.jpg

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Very nice dude!! well done

Would love to do my doors these holidays!! Wouldnt mind doin it myself. Was it hard?? Wanna help me hahah??

So did you notice a big difference once sound deadend??

Edited by siddr20
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it takes like 2 / 3 hours per door as the first step is cleaning all the crap off the door skin which takes aaaages. a good wax and grease remover is essential, strip off the plastic that covers the internals of the door, collect as much of the black gunk as possible before using the spray as it makes the gunk run and while it dissolves it, it takes ages to get off each layer. I found the best way was to collect a ball of the goo and keep sticking it to the other bits of gunk to bring it up. then used the spray to clean everything up once the majority of the gunk was off.

I then made 6mm MDF panels that roughly fitted all the major service holes in the door, put tape over the hole then placed the panel in that then layered it again. Theres a great tutorial for this on caraudioaustralia.com.au

When you start adding the deadener, use gloves as there are a multitude of very sharp corners waiting to fillet your fingertips! overlay each edge with another piece and keep it tight as possible. cover all holes where possible too.

no I don't think I want to do that again anytime soon :D

Very nice dude!! well done

Would love to do my doors these holidays!! Wouldnt mind doin it myself. Was it hard?? Wanna help me hahah??

So did you notice a big difference once sound deadend??

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for those who were interested in how the amps were solidly attached to the crappy back wall - there is a long 18mm thick MDF panel that is screwed into the battery tray and the metal below (keeping in mind there is the fuel tank there so they made very sure the screws went no where near that! this board then has the normal flimsy trim placed over it. then they positioned and screwed in both amps. Now there is no flex at all in the rear wall, now I need to stop the rest of teh boot trim vibrating!

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got it from Ryda. it was the double door pack. can't recall price exactly, but I got it below retail as a mate works there so it wouldn't be that good a guide anyway. Have a look on ebay there are some cheap buys on there (but postage can be be a stinger!)

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