Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm looking at putting an electrical water temp gauge in and i'm wondering where to put the sender.

do i remove the stock sender and put it in there?

or do i have to make something up to mount it in and put that in the hose?

if i disconnect the stock one does that stuff up the ecu (make it lose cold start or not control the fan properly)?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143692-water-temp-gauge/
Share on other sites

i just had the same problem with mine, bought a new one tryed the std sender but gives faulse readings, the sender that u get with it most likely doesnt fit in the std position(Right?), so im either gona tap in a new thread some where or go down to the exhaust shop an get then to make up a bit of pipe to go in between my radiater hose. either way

doesnt cost much.

i suppose i will have to make something up. getting my hands on stainless piping is no worries. i'll try putting it in the stock location (haven't bought the gauge yet) but if it doesn't fit then i'll make something up.

should i just cut toe standard top hose to fit the adapter in, or buy 2 new bits of hose. i want to try to get out of this as cheaply as possible since its going to be an expensive week for me as it is.

Cut the top hose in two, 12 months ago you could have brought mine!!

I sold it, already had ex temp, oil temp, oil press, boost, reckoned that was enough to distract me lol so sold the water temp and sender.

the main water connector hose has two sensors

one is for the guage in analog style

the other is for the ecu

if you disconnect the ecu one the car may not start and water temp corrections will not be applied correctly, ie: this is a bad idea

when i fried my water temp sensor the car wouldnt start

but when i unplugged the sensor is started fine so who knows.

i was told by a few people there is no chance an rb will start with it disconnected, but it did, so not sure what is right or wrong. but i know the corrections wont apply if its disconnected

If you disconnect the the sensor for the ECU (that's the 2-pin sensor, BTW), the ECU will either regard it as an error and run in safe mode, or it will always think the engine is cold and run with LOTS of fuel.

The sensor you can afford to replace is the single-pin sensor adjacent to the ECU sensor - it is the one that works the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. If you are fitting a new gauge, you obviously don't need that one to work.

The sensor you can afford to replace is the single-pin sensor adjacent to the ECU sensor - it is the one that works the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. If you are fitting a new gauge, you obviously don't need that one to work.

the problem is trying to get a sender that fits that hole.

Most temp. sensors are either 1/8"BSPT or NPT.

The Nissan's sensor hole is NOT tapered but is parallel thread with the sensor sealing against a seat cut in the aluminium housing.

There is ample space to drill and tap another thread beside the existing sensors, just take care that no drillings enter the cooling system.

If you decide on that cut top hose system, you must also run a grounding wire to the sensor.

post-13483-1164053989.jpg

hmmmm, interesting???

jus read that the sonsor shud be on the top hose, mine came with the car wen i got it but its on the bottom hose, is there any logical reason why its there, wat difference wud the top and bottom make??

is it hot engine coolant coming out the bottom hose through the radiator and out the top cooler or the other way???

i tapped my intake manifold right off the head near the coolant outlet, so its the most accurate reading i can get.

alternatively you could weld a bung into the motor outlet/rad inlet for the sensor and that would also provide an accurate reading.

putting the sensor in the hose will make your readings about 4* off of actual...well so ive found on various cars ive fitted them to.

i tapped my intake manifold right off the head near the coolant outlet, so its the most accurate reading i can get.

alternatively you could weld a bung into the motor outlet/rad inlet for the sensor and that would also provide an accurate reading.

putting the sensor in the hose will make your readings about 4* off of actual...well so ive found on various cars ive fitted them to.

shouldnt make a difference, so long as the sensor, NOT SENDER, is located between the engine and radiator inlet.

The main thing is to know what you're reading. Engine designers usually place the temp sender in a known hot spot, so the reading will be the max.

Big radial aero engines even shield number 1 cylinder from some air flow so that particular cylinder reading will read the worst case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...