Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I got an R33, RB25DET - the gearbox is whirring in 2nd, 3rd and 5th. Replaced the oil and all that - and its starting to get louder and louder! Ugh! (more $$$)

Here's my plan, help me out here tell me if its a shit idea or not.

1. Buy Good RB20 Gearbox cheap

2. Remove RB25 shagged box

3. Replace with RB20 Box.

4. Fix/Rebuild Gearbox as time/research/money permits.

5. Swap rebuilt RB25 with RB20 box again.

6. Sell RB20 Box cheap

I'm not pushing super-hp yet, but will be around the 350+rwhp after turbo upgrade soon, so the RB20box has to hold the standard 270-280hp that I've got now.

Installation considerations - I got access to workshop/hoist etc. I know the R33 boxes are heavy (like 70kg) so I'll get a few mates in on the deal.

I just need to make sure that EVERYTHING bolts up to the RB20 box, bellhousing, drive shaft, shifter, clutch slave cylinder etc.... Anyone done this before?

Cheers guys

-Kym.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143952-r33-gearbox-project/
Share on other sites

in R31's, you need to modify the tailshaft to fit the rb25det box, not sure about the gearbox crossmember. could end up being a bit of stuffing around.

might be a better idea to buy an RB25 box, even if its an NA one, because the resale will be fine and it will bolt straight in.

basically you'll need a different one

all the rooting around will cost you near on HALF of what the box itself will cost to rebuild.

if you drive it like a grandma till you can rebuild it, you'll save a good $700 in the long run

Mate,

i'm no expert here but it sounds like you got a little ripped off! They reckon $4000 for a rebuild?? What the hell are they putting in it??

JUSTJAP sell new ones for $3200.. i bought one of them instead of rebuilding as it was cheaper! i think it was 4000 for the rebuild. dont hold me to it thow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...