Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Psi Can Stock R32/r33 Bov Handle

DFAULT

By DFAULT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
i found the opposite while using the stock ECU, NO BOV caused no end of issues (RB25) with stalling and throttle response.

GTR BOV went on, problem went away :laugh:

But stalling etc is largely due to driving style as your already aware im sure :woot:

Not sure if its the complete opposite.

Throttle response was up with no bov (i.e partially on the throttle through a corner then nailing it) however it did have stalling issues and often backfiring on down changes or coming to a stop. The bastard always would stall driving in to my driveway.

Nothing I did to the pfc prevented it stalling or having the jerkyness drivability issue at low rpm when making some boost.

No bov... It did feel nice when I selected the next gear on 'full boost' partial throttle with a slow gear change as I didn't have to wait for the turbo to spool, boost was just there instantly. But.... I don't drive like that 90% of the time. Probably why I get 10.5-11l/100km's.

lol at chirping... I can chirp fourth if I try.. :ninja: lol not that its too good for the box. Chirping has everything to do with the clutch and how one shifts or should I say slaps.

  • 2 years later...
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know this is a very old thread but does anyone know where you can get a plumback hose for the GT-R stock BOV? It's like 40mm from the BOV to 30mm on the black hose that goes back to the intake. I can't read the vernier caliper that well so the size maybe way off but you get the idea.

Thanks.

Edited by teng
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Hrm... i think i have some in the boot of my car.

Lot of effort/cost to send to where you are - surely you can just get some hose made up mate?

And by that i just mean any old hose cut to suit, you dont need it to be any specific type really

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted

I see. Doesn't have to be any special reducer hose. I was searching for HKS straight reducers but can't find any online. I'll go to the workshop today and see if i can get a normal hose to fit.

Thanks R31Nismoid.

  • 1 month later...
geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

Hey sorry to bring this old fourm back, but would blocking that bleed hole really make a diffrence joeyjojo? would i need another re-tune to do this? and how did u do it? did u just put a lil bit of weld? i wana give it a try to hold 17psi .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...