Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys...

________________________________________________________

I have found 2 ppl selling these air boxes on SAU...Maxx / Mr_Crust

Both look awesome.

Want some feedback to help me decide between designs..

and maxx and mr_crust! no creating new userids and bragging bout your item lmao jkn..

:D

________________________________________________________

Below Sold by Maxx from S.A

post-32432-1164509252.jpg

optional block off the snokel hole and stock cooler piping hole (for aftermarket cooler piping)

$195 posted

P.S. solenoid relocation will require for R33 with stock boost solenoid

________________________________________________________

Above: I have heard feedback that it does not sit down low enough and there is quite a large gap between the bottom of the unit and the car which will still let in heat...

Can anyone confirm this?

________________________________________________________

Below Sold by Mr_Crust from Melbourne

post-32432-1164509649.jpg

________________________________________________________

havent seen any feedback on these...

Price and Payment Conditions: $120 includes regualr postage within australia

have to put it together yourself (simple as but still had to write it up)

________________________________________________________

PS. I HAVE AFTERMARKET COOLER PIPING.... so yeh.. need ta know what you guys though of these to work out which one is better for reducing heat from engine bay on the pod and general workmanship and how good they LOOK ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144824-which-cai-air-box-is-better/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Maxx one looks the best, but the Mr Crust one functions the best. I have the Maxx one and it doesnt fit properly ie doesnt line up with the side correctly and sits too high. Modded it slightly but its major pain in the arse. I need to make it sit lower somehow. Its melting the fire protective shit under my bonnet it sits so damn high. Really shits me.

Mr Crust one you assemble yourself and is fine but doesnt look as good. Personally i'd say just get the Mr Crust one or something from UAS.

Edited by Xizor
The Maxx one looks the best, but the Mr Crust one functions the best. I have the Maxx one and it doesnt fit properly ie doesnt line up with the side correctly and sits too high. Modded it slightly but its major pain in the arse. I need to make it sit lower somehow. Its melting the fire protective shit under my bonnet it sits so damn high. Really shits me.

Mr Crust one you assemble yourself and is fine but doesnt look as good. Personally i'd say just get the Mr Crust one or something from UAS.

cool will do.. whats uas?

well its not useless in terms of avoiding defect for having a pod... actually i dont even know that hahaha. i wouldnt ditch my pod for anything though love how the car feels with it and the induction noise!

thats my main reason of purchase! but do we loose much of that noise... i suppose you would :)

i'm just making one up myself. i'm basing it off the UAS design. going to cost about $20 (actually it won't cost me a thing as i have all the stuff i need sitting around the house). i just got some cardboard, cut a template, then cut the shape needed out of some sheet metal, bend to shape, make some brackets and a lid and get some old firewall heatproofing from the wreckers.

sure it will have gaps and not seal 100% but the amount of air coming through the gaps won't make a pubic hair's difference (since the pod sits directly over the hot intercooler pipe anyway). and the heatshielding will stop a lot of the air coming through those gaps, and stop some of the heat coming off the cooler pipe and from the heatshield getting hot from the engine bay. then i just have to expand the hole where the stock cold intercooler pipe came through to about 3" and put a duct from the front bar.

i'm just making one up myself. i'm basing it off the UAS design. going to cost about $20 (actually it won't cost me a thing as i have all the stuff i need sitting around the house). i just got some cardboard, cut a template, then cut the shape needed out of some sheet metal, bend to shape, make some brackets and a lid and get some old firewall heatproofing from the wreckers.

sure it will have gaps and not seal 100% but the amount of air coming through the gaps won't make a pubic hair's difference (since the pod sits directly over the hot intercooler pipe anyway). and the heatshielding will stop a lot of the air coming through those gaps, and stop some of the heat coming off the cooler pipe and from the heatshield getting hot from the engine bay. then i just have to expand the hole where the stock cold intercooler pipe came through to about 3" and put a duct from the front bar.

cool let us know how you go! make a thread or something when its done or update this one if its still alive :mad:

sure it will have gaps and not seal 100% but the amount of air coming through the gaps won't make a pubic hair's difference

lol, are you sure? even a really thick curly pubic hair? :mad:

i'm going to do the same thing, but since i'm using the stock cooler piping, i'm going to use the standard snorkel, maybe even custom make a wider one.

is stainless the best material for this job regarding heat?

is aluminium better?

and i did extensive testing with all sorts of pubic hairs that i found in public toilets.

great :laugh:

*mental note: do not shake goober's hand*

edit: i type like a munky

Edited by Munkyb0y

lol

trust you, out of all that...

i'm just making one up myself. i'm basing it off the UAS design. going to cost about $20 (actually it won't cost me a thing as i have all the stuff i need sitting around the house). i just got some cardboard, cut a template, then cut the shape needed out of some sheet metal, bend to shape, make some brackets and a lid and get some old firewall heatproofing from the wreckers.

sure it will have gaps and not seal 100% but the amount of air coming through the gaps won't make a pubic hair's difference (since the pod sits directly over the hot intercooler pipe anyway). and the heatshielding will stop a lot of the air coming through those gaps, and stop some of the heat coming off the cooler pipe and from the heatshield getting hot from the engine bay. then i just have to expand the hole where the stock cold intercooler pipe came through to about 3" and put a duct from the front bar.

to pick up the words "pubic hair" as the only thing to comment on... GOLD

I am making one up based on another members design, i can supply name and you can all contact him to get the template. It uses ALCUBOND as the main construction with a foam insulation on the inside.

So far the material is free and it's gona look something like this

post-27760-1164678186.jpg

Edited by WogsRus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...