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Gt-r Gearbox Removal

Remix-
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shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

grab a jack & block of wood and put the wood underneath the crank pulley and jack it up a bit to tilt the engine back. also undo the top bolt on the starter motor first, caus ull need to use ur fingers to unscrew it

bell housing bolts, with the motor tilted back, grab all the long extensions u can find and put a uni-joint on b4 the socket and u should be able to undo them that way.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've done this by myself on the garage floor, elapsed time from getting it out to getting back in ended up being about two weeks....(long story) - it wont take you anyway near that long, but it will probably be a complete BIATCH.

Anyway i got some good tips from here so try searching for past threads on the same topic. From what i can remember,

- You'll need 2 x 500mm extentions to get the top bolt(s) out. I used some electical tape on the uni joint to stop the socket from flopping down, but still offer some flexibility.

- Take the front pipe off

- Stubby ratchet ring spanners are you freinds

- If you're changing the clutch dont forget to get a clutch aligning tool to make it easy

- I had two trolley jacks and wanted a third

- Dont forget to block the hose that connects to the rear of the box, or you'll loose all the fluid from the resevoir down

- When you're putting it back on, you have to push the box up rotated (cant remember which way) then when you've got it in position rotate it back - i couldnt get it back in if i tried to just lift it straight up.

hope some of that helps,

Kot

Edited by MrKotter
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

I did mine on a hoist and it was a piece of piss. The starter bolts are a little annoying though! Im sure without the hoist it will be a little trickier. See if you can get a cradle for a trolley jack to carry the transmission..

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

I've done this a few times now and can get one out in about 1.5 hours if it has been pulled out recently.

The first thing you should do is borrow an air compressor and then go and by a supercheap air rachet for around $40. This will become your best friend. This will save you cutting up hands and about 2 hours!

A couple jacks.

You'll need a stubby 14mm spanner for the starter motor. Its easy to access with one of these.

You may possibly need an allen key that fits a 1/2 inch breaker bar to undo the tail shaft. These can be really tight.

For the top bolts you don't need to jack the engine as most people say. Just by undoing the rear crossmember your can get in there with extensions and a socket. Also if I remember right you can reach across the top of the g/box from the passenger side by hand to undo the drivers side bolt once its cracked.

Remember though to leave some bolts in the bottom of the bell housing to stop the g/box sliding off.

Leave the rear crossmember bolted to the g/box to stop it spining around on removal.

One thing to remember is that the transfer case is seperate to the g/box and they use different oils.

Also for a cheap and easy clutch aligning tool you can use a pen with sticky tape wrapped around it if your desperate. I've always done this and had no problems.

Hope this helps.

I have done this many times by myself. Just be carefull.

Remix- Mentor

Remix-

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the box is out - damn heavy thing it is!

I removed the gearbox xmember and lowered the box down with a jack, this gave me enough space to rear the top bellhousing bolts with my 1/4 drive extension bars. The allen key bolts on the tail shaft were very tight, extension bar over the top sorts it out.

Interestingly no fluid seeped out of the hydrualics upon removing it from the transfer case.. any ideas why? Hopefully the pump is not stuffed.

Twisted and bought the box down slowly, was stupidly heavy! I had a mate helping me, I'd recommend having a 3rd person no doubt.

Now to change the transfer case and whack her back in there.. *ughh*

gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
Posted

holy shit theres abit to it. im so glad my mates a good mechanic. not long till ill attempt it, sounds like a case of the right tools and abit of time will see you through.

good info everyone will help us heaps

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Interestingly no fluid seeped out of the hydrualics upon removing it from the transfer case.. any ideas why? Hopefully the pump is not stuffed.

Very little should come out of the rear of the box but if you dont block the pipe that comes from the rear it will keep coming out .

Don't forget to bleed the sydtem when you put the box back in, i've seen plenty with air in them after the had a clutch change

  • 2 weeks later...
Remix- Mentor

Remix-

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Turned out Nissan gave me the wrong size roll pin. *insert cursing here*. Anyways new pin sorted, box is all nice and clean and ready to go back in this week. I have never driven the car with ATTESSA functioning, shall be interesting :)

Edited by Remix-
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Turned out Nissan gave me the wrong size roll pin. *insert cursing here*. Anyways new pin sorted, box is all nice and clean and ready to go back in this week. I have never driven the car with ATTESSA functioning, shall be interesting :D

good stuff.

few tips. dont use grease on the thrust bearing or the input shaft caus it can stuff ur clutch, instead use graphite powder. also put a little dab of grease on ur pivot ball to stop any squeaking

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