Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i was thinkin of gettn a fmic, but i dont wana lose power, cause i dont boost my car often.

i chuk on the bleed valve on weekends sometimes, set at 12.5psi.

ive got a remapped ecu

turbo bak exhaust

and a pod filter.

my boost guage is reading 10psi without the bleed valve on (naturally the boost has increasd cause of my mods) if i was to buy a fmic, would i lose power if dont boost it to 12-13psi? i dont like to keep it boosted cause i dont wanna get done by the cops...

is ther any point in gettn a front mount if im not gona be runnin 12-13psi?

cheers...

Edited by 32line

you wont loose power exactly but there will be more throttle lag as each time you open the throttle, you have to pressurize all the extra pipe work and larger core over the stock unit.

yep, the pick of the bunch for your application would be standard R34 intercooler, or ARC sidemount (similar to the HKS sidemount Sewid has). Cheaper than FMIC, easy to install and legal. and good performers.

As said...a larger fmic won't cause a loss of power...a slight bit more throttle lag as mentioned but hardly noticeable...you'll still get small power gain as the air is cooler and the restriction from the stock smic is gone...in my case...even a shitty hybrid style cooler gave a noticeable gain...

wat bout a stock 32gtr cooler?

r32 gtr cooler is a front mount so ... if you're going down the front mount path an r32 gtr cooler is a more expensive option and there aren't that many great examples floating around for sale.

Just to let you know that the R34 gtt cooler is not a straiaght fit to r32 gtst. You will have to either modify the endtank on the GTT cooler so the outlet faces forwards OR modify the R32 pipework so it lines up.

I'm contemplating which to do myself at the moment. Not sure.

Modifying endtank - can get a welder to do it for about $50, get to keep my stock piping (so i can refit a stock cooler if i ever want easily). Can be done with my car still going (big plus when i have to get to the welder and back) But the end tank is designed to flow best to the current outlet position, so modifying the endtank could decrease flow capability slightly.

Modifying piping - unsure what exactly needs to be done. May involve cutting the car body. Never be able to refit stock cooler. If the stock piping cant be modified to fit directly, I'll be stuck. Upside - endtank doesnt have to be modified, dont have to go to welder.

So still not sure what to do...

Apparently the gtt cooler should be able to handle 200-220rwkw. More than I'll ever have, and I have a water spray kit ready to go on at the same time. I'm looking to go to a sliding performance RB25 highflow eventually but thats it, so the gtt cooler should be perfect.

Rhett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...