Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145820-a-good-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

Tell him that if he doesn't thrash the car the last 2 street corners b4 parking that he shouldn't have to wait for a turbo cool down. But if he insist on it, then as above, they r all more or less alike, some with a few more features than other like lap timers, A/F ratio(theoretical)... but all do the same job. Im running a Apexi pentype, cheap, slim, sleek n easy to hide(from the cops). HKS does a good one as well with 1/4 mile timer.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electroni...8&pageNum=1

Check out the For Sale section, should be some decently priced ones there delivered.

thanks for the quick replies guys...and he is anal about cooling them down...as he is with everything about the damn car lol. His pride and joy...but it makes buying presents easy (maybe a bit expensive tho).

I didnt realise that they were all basically similar..

oh while i'm here i have one more question...he wants a tacho thing (is that what they are called) the one where the light flashes on when he needs to change gears or something. Anyways all he wants to install is the light without the gauge is that possible? Or can you not buy and install them separate from one another?

thanks again, you have been most helpful..!

Turbo Timers just trick the car into thinking the key is left in the ignition. They just count down then disconnect the circuit (take the key out). So yes they're all the same. $80 for a apexi pen timer is about usual.. I got a $30 second hand HKS one cos I like old school stuff. You shouldn't pay more than $100 for a new one in my opinion.

It is possible to get just the light. If you're looking at something you can buy off-the-shelf then you can get a kit thingy made by a company called Pivot which is pretty cool. They do sell JUST the light so don't get confused with the shift kit, you only want the shift light.

As someone said before if your bf cools the car down properly he won't need a turbo timer - usually they're only useful at the racetrack. Similarly he shouldn't need a shift light on the street... but then again the advice above is if you/he insists... gotta get some BLING BLING somewhere.

for the shift light I would suggest Pivot shift light. they make 3 types. one is a small type one, one is a large single light. and the other has 3 little lights that go off in stage. all very high quality, and easy to use and fit. They cost between $130 and $180 from memory.

for the turbo timer, maybe go for a pivot one too so it matches? or the Greddy one is good, as are the HKS ones. Personally I'd prefer the Greddy one.

I'm sure he will love both gifts. :dry:

check them out here:

http://pivotjp.com/product/shiftlamp/ssl-m-e.html

this is the pro, very cool:

ssl-p-animation.gif

and the "M" looks like this:

ssl-m.jpg

I'd reccomend either the "M" or the "Pro" as they are the least conspicuous of the 3 types. The X is pretty big.

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

where in Australia can i buy the "M" or the "Pro" shift light? anyone know?

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :)

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Oh and look out for the idiots and "experts" on that board, they have a higher ratio than SAU.. much higher.

did you hear that ?????

you guys are gems :)

:dry:

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

yep id go the silver looks good with the black dash unless you want to hide it... i got a silver 1... greddy is a good unit and not very $.

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :yes:

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Anyone know exactly how big the M n Pro light is, thinking bout getting one myself now. Damn this site... just makes me spend $$... lol. N i assume u can wire it to a 12V source with switch n fuse instead of using the cigarette lighter. Where do u guys place the light n black box with the +/- adjustments?

Sorry Rachelle, didnt mean to hijack ur thread. Get ur bf the pivot, he'll luv u for it... :wub:

Turbo Timer…..YUK

What do you want one of those for?

They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car.

Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it.

Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer

What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a diff timer

If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway.

Oooooo, better buy a brake timer

Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway.

:wub: cheers :yes:

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

I also have the greddy turbo timer (Silver) got it from Autobarn from $130.

In reply to the others mentioning about easy to steal etc, I got a pro. to wire it into the imobiliser and alarm system so if the car is broken into whilst on turbo timer the car shuts down and its imobilized.

I heard that you don't need to cool the turbos down unless you drive like a hoon constantly but I drive on the hwy to get home 110km for like an hour so I do it just for safety lets the whole car take a breather rather then just shutting down. But each to their own.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...