Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145820-a-good-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

Tell him that if he doesn't thrash the car the last 2 street corners b4 parking that he shouldn't have to wait for a turbo cool down. But if he insist on it, then as above, they r all more or less alike, some with a few more features than other like lap timers, A/F ratio(theoretical)... but all do the same job. Im running a Apexi pentype, cheap, slim, sleek n easy to hide(from the cops). HKS does a good one as well with 1/4 mile timer.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electroni...8&pageNum=1

Check out the For Sale section, should be some decently priced ones there delivered.

thanks for the quick replies guys...and he is anal about cooling them down...as he is with everything about the damn car lol. His pride and joy...but it makes buying presents easy (maybe a bit expensive tho).

I didnt realise that they were all basically similar..

oh while i'm here i have one more question...he wants a tacho thing (is that what they are called) the one where the light flashes on when he needs to change gears or something. Anyways all he wants to install is the light without the gauge is that possible? Or can you not buy and install them separate from one another?

thanks again, you have been most helpful..!

Turbo Timers just trick the car into thinking the key is left in the ignition. They just count down then disconnect the circuit (take the key out). So yes they're all the same. $80 for a apexi pen timer is about usual.. I got a $30 second hand HKS one cos I like old school stuff. You shouldn't pay more than $100 for a new one in my opinion.

It is possible to get just the light. If you're looking at something you can buy off-the-shelf then you can get a kit thingy made by a company called Pivot which is pretty cool. They do sell JUST the light so don't get confused with the shift kit, you only want the shift light.

As someone said before if your bf cools the car down properly he won't need a turbo timer - usually they're only useful at the racetrack. Similarly he shouldn't need a shift light on the street... but then again the advice above is if you/he insists... gotta get some BLING BLING somewhere.

for the shift light I would suggest Pivot shift light. they make 3 types. one is a small type one, one is a large single light. and the other has 3 little lights that go off in stage. all very high quality, and easy to use and fit. They cost between $130 and $180 from memory.

for the turbo timer, maybe go for a pivot one too so it matches? or the Greddy one is good, as are the HKS ones. Personally I'd prefer the Greddy one.

I'm sure he will love both gifts. :dry:

check them out here:

http://pivotjp.com/product/shiftlamp/ssl-m-e.html

this is the pro, very cool:

ssl-p-animation.gif

and the "M" looks like this:

ssl-m.jpg

I'd reccomend either the "M" or the "Pro" as they are the least conspicuous of the 3 types. The X is pretty big.

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

where in Australia can i buy the "M" or the "Pro" shift light? anyone know?

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :)

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Oh and look out for the idiots and "experts" on that board, they have a higher ratio than SAU.. much higher.

did you hear that ?????

you guys are gems :)

:dry:

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

yep id go the silver looks good with the black dash unless you want to hide it... i got a silver 1... greddy is a good unit and not very $.

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :yes:

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Anyone know exactly how big the M n Pro light is, thinking bout getting one myself now. Damn this site... just makes me spend $$... lol. N i assume u can wire it to a 12V source with switch n fuse instead of using the cigarette lighter. Where do u guys place the light n black box with the +/- adjustments?

Sorry Rachelle, didnt mean to hijack ur thread. Get ur bf the pivot, he'll luv u for it... :wub:

Turbo Timer…..YUK

What do you want one of those for?

They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car.

Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it.

Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer

What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a diff timer

If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway.

Oooooo, better buy a brake timer

Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway.

:wub: cheers :yes:

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

I also have the greddy turbo timer (Silver) got it from Autobarn from $130.

In reply to the others mentioning about easy to steal etc, I got a pro. to wire it into the imobiliser and alarm system so if the car is broken into whilst on turbo timer the car shuts down and its imobilized.

I heard that you don't need to cool the turbos down unless you drive like a hoon constantly but I drive on the hwy to get home 110km for like an hour so I do it just for safety lets the whole car take a breather rather then just shutting down. But each to their own.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...