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il rephrase that. there not crap, but you need to modify them to get the most out of them. basicly cut 1cm out of each half.

the rear arm thy have are pretty good value. the only thing you dont get is a "quality" rod end. but they do the job.

ps.. a decent rod end/hemmijoint is around 90-120 each!! then theres the arm!! gotta love china. i dont know how they can do it..

if your talking about the JJR rear arms, they do far from a good job, they are weak and utter crap, the welds have bugger all penetration and the fact that mine both failed within a 1-2 km drive around the block means there is no way in hell they would last on a daily driven road car.

I went and bought some quality arms with motorsport quality rosejointsm, sure i paid more but at least they will (and have) hold together.

wich car was this in? was it both arms (camber and traction rod?)

ive unfortunatly had to fit a number of them. but have had no returns. (not everyone understands to get quality yuo pay more lol)

abit hard to sell ikeya formula when the turn up with a box of these things.

Well i need to get off my ass and pick up the set of Noltec arms a friend ordered for me. After talking to the two workshops who i have used for wheel alignments, who have used numerous sets in cars used for tarmac work, drifting, circuit and motorkhana... to the best of their knowledge none have failed or come lose.

This weekend i will get off my ass and get them to install for the first track day of 2007.

The bushes are good, but if you drive the car hard and have prertty racey alignment you may find they die a bit too quick. Once i get my camber settings right im tempted to measure the hole centres and get solid arms made up to suit

if your talking about the JJR rear arms, they do far from a good job, they are weak and utter crap, the welds have bugger all penetration and the fact that mine both failed within a 1-2 km drive around the block means there is no way in hell they would last on a daily driven road car.

I went and bought some quality arms with motorsport quality rosejointsm, sure i paid more but at least they will (and have) hold together.

oh, not having a go at all. but did you know that any aftermarket non standard arm is ilegal for road use? but who cares anyway lol

They have a very similar design to the ones i got from japan, except mine are symmetric. i.e. the threaded parts dont have 1 longer than the other. Seems to me like it would be more hassle to do this... 3 different parts instead of 2 different parts

Looking at the Noltec catalogue, adjustment is via the 2 parts of the arm sliding inside each other and then are locked with grub screws (think camber tops, that style of sliding and locking).

N52088.jpg

These designs are known for slipping when used for control arms. They also retail for $691.43 according to their site...

Have you thought about just getting camber adjustable bushes? These are under $200, last time I looked (a while ago) they were being redeveloped to stop the excessive wear of one of the bushes and they were also coming down in price. They have now come down to $187 (i think) so I assume they are now stiffer and last longer?

if there symetrical you probably got z32 ones. theyl fit but give you fark all caster.

Nah, I dont mean symmetrical that way, I'm saying the 2 bits going into the turnbuckle are the same length, unlike the JJR one, it appears that one is longer than the other, and doesnt have the threaded section all the way up. These are the upper arms I have

upperarms.jpg

Obviously as they're threaded I have them staggered like they are meant to be. I did however accidently put them in staggered the wrong way, far too much castor and dick all camber. Something like 16deg castor and 2 deg camber with arms at minimum length. In comparison, the right way around, my arms max out at 6deg camber, more adjustment than I could ever hope for

so on this topic. who makes the best japanese arms? I was thinking about some cusco castor rods (they look nice, with little boots for the rose joint). for rear arms maybe cusco as well. as for upper arms, i might wait and see what troy thinks of the noltec ones.

well, that's good enough for me. I'll pick-up a set in january when I'm back in japan.

that just leaves what to do about my upper arms. and rear upper and lower arms....

Im not sure man but it doesnt look like alot, maybe around -1.5deg to -2deg at a guess. Definately not enough for drifting my 4 door at high speeds.

So the Whiteline camber kit would give the same amount of negative camber as you achieved from the arms. As usual those arms don't give any more camber than any other arm (or bush).

:D cheers :wave:

Ps; if you truly need that much negative camber, then you don't have sufficient anti roll, time for some stabiliser bars.

in terms of arms id say the traditional midori ones on the front are the go. the rear id say ikeya formula. very nicly mae and extreemly good quality rose joints.

cusco rears always sieze up. the plating on the rose joint seems to react with that of the arm its self. heaps gay halfway threw a wheel alignment.

really 6 degrees? thats heaps. i can only get 3.5 max. hmmn mayby ive got them on the wrong way again lol. il mesure the lenth tomorrow..

So the Whiteline camber kit would give the same amount of negative camber as you achieved from the arms. As usual those arms don't give any more camber than any other arm (or bush).

:D cheers :D

Ps; if you truly need that much negative camber, then you don't have sufficient anti roll, time for some stabiliser bars.

Yeah but the point is that they are a one peice solid item that wont budge and -5deg seems pretty common for 4 door drifters in Japan. After all I havn't done anything to the car since it came over and it's got me into the top 10 in the wa drift series.

So the Whiteline camber kit would give the same amount of negative camber as you achieved from the arms. As usual those arms don't give any more camber than any other arm (or bush).

:D cheers :D

Ps; if you truly need that much negative camber, then you don't have sufficient anti roll, time for some stabiliser bars.

Well SK, I am sorry to say that you are terribly wrong, I speak from personal experience and salad here can back me up on it, since he helped me out putting the bushes on.

I can believe that you go around telling people that the whiteline bushes give as much negative camber as any other aftermarket arm, when we couldnt get even -2.3 degrees from them!!

People if you want decent negative camber, DO NOT get this bushes you WILL waste your money as I did.

Cheers

Ric

Edited by Richo

Did you use the offset bush on the inner and outer? I had -3deg neg which was pretty stupid as i got it all aliged for semi slicks then didnt go to the track for a few months and got jack of eating my road tyres so put it back to -2 which is easier on tyres.

Only to run some semis at the track to find that whilst i was able to get the camber i wanted...i couldnt get them to live as they distorted and allowed the eccentric bolt to knock around :D

Offset bush was in the outer bush.

The instructions on the kit stated +/- 0.5deg and that is what it gave. I thought they gave a lot more adjustment than that... That's what I was led to believe anyway

Edited by salad

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