Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure it will mate! Your 34R is the best I've seen in yellow. I got one set of stickers previous to those but I didn't like the outline, so found the red set which were perfect

Cheers mate. Yea ny wheels are te37sl but I didn't like the red with the yellow, so will see how they work out. Will post pics once there on.

Dang son, very well done. What are the specs on your wheel fitment?

Also, how did you tint the reverse lights?? DIY?

Cheers Tom,

19x9.5 +12 all around, front and rear guards are both rolled to flatten the lip and pulled out a few mm.

Reverse lights are tinted using a gloss black tint film (not like window tint) i stock, as were the rear indicators which i now have precut pieces to suit 34 tail light indicators. The beauty of it is when you throw it in reverse or put on your indicators they are still clear as day, almost no reduction in brightness with the tint film on.

Cheers Tom,

19x9.5 +12 all around, front and rear guards are both rolled to flatten the lip and pulled out a few mm.

Reverse lights are tinted using a gloss black tint film (not like window tint) i stock, as were the rear indicators which i now have precut pieces to suit 34 tail light indicators. The beauty of it is when you throw it in reverse or put on your indicators they are still clear as day, almost no reduction in brightness with the tint film on.

Sounds the goods Stephen, I just bought some cst zero-1 hyper in 18x9.5 + 15 all around, so the fitment should be very similar to yours :yes: . What tyre sizes are you running, and do you get any scrubbing on full lock?

Considering you run a graphic business, I'm guessing you can supply the tint film?

PM me details if this is the case :thanks:

Sounds the goods Stephen, I just bought some cst zero-1 hyper in 18x9.5 + 15 all around, so the fitment should be very similar to yours :yes: . What tyre sizes are you running, and do you get any scrubbing on full lock?

Considering you run a graphic business, I'm guessing you can supply the tint film?

PM me details if this is the case :thanks:

Ah very nice,

Tyres are 235/35/19 up front and 265/30/19 rear.

With the front plastic guard liners removed there is almost no scrubbing on full lock.

I'm thinking of adding camber arms to give it just a little neg camber and also hopefully help it tuck more when leaning into a corner/going down a large dip, as if i corner too hard it will scrub a little on i believe the guard. Also going down a dip really fast which naturally compresses the coilovers tends to cause a little scrape.

Will send you a PM regarding the tint film.

Some pics I dug up off my hard drives.

Love em!!

post-12712-0-16784400-1355396282_thumb.jpg

Hey thats my car :) , geez long time since that photo taken some changes since then. ( wheels, bonnet :) , some slight damage to lower lip :( )

Glad it made it onto the must keep photos lol

Its actually a Fluro Orange, (Which you prob still might not like lol) the shitty iPhone Camera does not even show you how bright these are, thought they would be something a bit different for summer.

They were originally a white rim and I Plastic Dipped them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...