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Not as such, but i've heard that its pretty tricky to do without breaking it.

I'm not sure how accurate this is though, it might have just been the panelbeater spinning sh*t so he could charge more

Yes.

But we used a window remover thing, kinda like a cross between an electric knife and spatula.....cuts through the black gooey stuff and out she comes.

Thanks for the reply Duncan, how did you get the surround of the window off?

hmm don't really remember must have been fairly straightforward. Inside trim is held in with clips, so you yank them out breaking them all and then look around local car part shops hoping to find new ones to match so you can put it back in.

I assume there is a proper way to do it though :ninja:

yes it is. the rubber seal and the glass is one piece. my advice is dont remove them unless you have no other choice. When I resprayed my car I insisted they remove them to ensure good finish, and no build up. BUT they told me I was being pedantic and that if masked properly, and painted properly it wouldn't be a problem. I wish I listened. mine came out, and went back in but the seals dont like quite the same as they did before :ninja:

The quarter glass and seal is one piece, but between the glass and the metal of the car body is a sikaflex bead seal.

Panelbeater broke my right side qtr as well, it had to come out to get at the cancer. The replacement looks good, whilst the original on the left has a banged up outer seal.

  • 1 year later...

There's also a 10mm nut on the inside rear. Hard to believe but true. The stud for the nut is bonded to the glass. I removed mine when we painted the car with the tried and proven piano wire method. Careful not to damage it at all, as the seals don't come away from the glass - one piece.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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