Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Restrictor In Gtr

andz

By andz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
Posted

yeh i removed mine 12months ago and have not had a problem,but that dont mean shit,just leave it in and wait till ya get cash for new turbos,or risk blowing them or ya motor or both in a worst case senario....

my2c

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted
yeh i removed mine 12months ago and have not had a problem,but that dont mean shit,just leave it in and wait till ya get cash for new turbos,or risk blowing them or ya motor or both in a worst case senario....

my2c

do r34 GTRs have decent turbo;s meaning should be ok for him to run about 13 psi?

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

This thread is pointless. R34's do not have a boost restrictor. They have a marking where a restictor would be but they do not have a restrictor like the older GTRs.

As Geoff has already mentioned - R34 turbos are ceramic wheels with ball bearings. Mine was running 1 bar from the factory after I put a cat back + hiflow cat on it. They do this all day long and will go the distance.

If you want to pull a restriction out open up your airbox and check to see if you still have the factory plug in the wheel well intake hole. Pull that plug out and go for a drive. Sounds good :P

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
This thread is pointless. R34's do not have a boost restrictor. They have a marking where a restictor would be but they do not have a restrictor like the older GTRs.

As Geoff has already mentioned - R34 turbos are ceramic wheels with ball bearings. Mine was running 1 bar from the factory after I put a cat back + hiflow cat on it. They do this all day long and will go the distance.

If you want to pull a restriction out open up your airbox and check to see if you still have the factory plug in the wheel well intake hole. Pull that plug out and go for a drive. Sounds good :P

What he said is all correct but if a turbo lets go you risk sucking back the dust in the engine just like all other RB26's .

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
Posted
are you sure? I know the gtt has but according to HPI mag,the GTR 34 have steel.

I think they would have been refering to the Nur Edition (VSpec and MSpec), it had the steel wheel turbos (N1 spec), and they were the last of the R34 GTRs that were made. They also got other N1 component to make up the engine.

Baysidebluebnr34 Rising Star

Baysidebluebnr34

Posted
Posted
I think they would have been refering to the Nur Edition (VSpec and MSpec), it had the steel wheel turbos (N1 spec), and they were the last of the R34 GTRs that were made. They also got other N1 component to make up the engine.

When I was changing the actuator I had a closer look at the turbos, There are the same as what they had in the picture, 0.53 inlet housing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...