Rb26 Dett Rebuild

[cactu5]

Hi,

I'm looking at rebuilding an RB26 out of an R32. At present the motor is still running fine, although it has done high kilometres and the oil pump is on its way out. I'm not looking for ridiculous power because this is my daily driver, but I do want a bit of power, reliability, and I want the option of close to ridiculous power later on.

I'm trying not to spend too much cash on parts, and I was wondering WHAT PARTS SHOULD I GET? At the moment I'm looking at.........

- N1 oil pump + collar

- head gasket metal or copper?

- Probably forged pistons, which ones?

- Probably not forged rods, should I though?

- Where can I save without too much compromise?

- Turbos?

If anyone knows any sites that give competitive pricing I would love to know. Thanks in advance.

[GTR1993]

firslty what is the overall power goal and the end, from there we will know what is needed.

[cactu5]

firslty what is the overall power goal and the end, from there we will know what is needed.

My day to day power goals are probably a modest 250kw at the wheels, but maybe later I will want 350kw. I don't want to rebuild the motor and find that I'm limited too much later on when my power goals have changed.

[dead32]

you just answeared your own question in a way, you will eventualy need a tough motor, so build it right the first time.

[Topaz]

My day to day power goals are probably a modest 250kw at the wheels, but maybe later I will want 350kw. I don't want to rebuild the motor and find that I'm limited too much later on when my power goals have changed.

My car is running increased boost on std turbos and internals with a few performance mods and power output is 240kW. 250kW from a GTR is easy enough, come to think of it so is 300kW with the addition of some steel turbos.

With what you have planned, before you know it you'll be aiming at 373kW (500hp ).

Check out the Eagle Con Rods Group Buy

[PhilGTR]

Yeah i think if you dont want to spend too much and still be able to do 350kw youd probably need:

-cp/acl/arias forged pistons and rings

-Big end an main bearings

-N1 oil pump and water pump

-polish and test your crank with a collar or maybe get a r33 gtr crank.

-stock rods r probably fine

-not sure on the gaskets but i think the hks one is good

-and maybe get a good head job too with a set of tomei poncams and cam gears.

-turbos maybe hks 2530s for the power your after.

But then you would need a whole heap of other support mods to support over 300kw.

Will add up the bill to well over 10k I reckon with labour

Hi,

I'm looking at rebuilding an RB26 out of an R32. At present the motor is still running fine, although it has done high kilometres and the oil pump is on its way out. I'm not looking for ridiculous power because this is my daily driver, but I do want a bit of power, reliability, and I want the option of close to ridiculous power later on.

I'm trying not to spend too much cash on parts, and I was wondering WHAT PARTS SHOULD I GET? At the moment I'm looking at.........

- N1 oil pump + collar

- head gasket metal or copper?

- Probably forged pistons, which ones?

- Probably not forged rods, should I though?

- Where can I save without too much compromise?

- Turbos?

If anyone knows any sites that give competitive pricing I would love to know. Thanks in advance.

[blind_elk]

Can I suggest you not install forged pistons. I did in my RB25DET, and I cannot stop it devouring oil.

Forged pistons need to be HOT, and my experience is that normal driving does not seem to introduce enough heat to force the piston to expand properly.

[hanyou]

i just orderd a pair of rb26 hi flows just then off slide (trader in the forum). hoping to see close to 300kw with jus the usual bolt ons + fuel/intake upgrades. it will be my daily driver as well so i want something practical.

ill follow this thread as well, as my engine may be up for a rebuild after blowing the stock turbos and i dont need a machine of a engine, jus something reliable that can take the power level im after. (300-320kw)

[arep3]

ill be following this fairly closely too as im up for the rebuild now. im currently savin as much of the cash as possible. im lookin at basically the same as what you are. so far i reckon im up for a good 15000 seams im looking at either gt-ss or gt-rs turbos, clutch from jim berry and a power fc. a few other things will be needed. prolly a new head as we are pretty sure its cracked...

[blk180]

I will throw my last rebuild up

Forged pistons

ACL competition bearings

new gasket set

bore/hone block

deck top

chemically clean linish crank flow test injectors

all that was 3k

labour and R&R was about 3.5-4k

sould also be noted that i already had all head work done,billet rods,N1 water and oil pump, crank was already fitted with collar and tomie metal gasket kit aswell.

On the hunt 350kw i will add my other parts

2530s second ahnd 2.5k

pon cams $800

800cc sard injectors

nismo AFM $600

nismo fuel pump $400-500

full exhurst turbo back 1600-2000

sard FPR

Power FC

spitfire coils $589

blitz EBC

JJR intercooler

JB clutch

I would say i missed some things once you start its hard to stop changing things

[rawnsGTR]

Hey cactu5.I rebuilt my RB26DETT(R32) only a year ago after it gave way(quite badly!).Did my research and was building for a reliable 350atw kw.I put forged pistons in and acl race bearings(big end and main).My crank was cactus so got a brand new R33 GTR crank for 1000.As for rods,I replaced the buggered one with a second hand one,had new bushes put in,balanced,prepped and all that good stuff.The standard rods are good for plenty of power but you must upgrade the rod bolts to ARP 2000 or L19(I think they are the new ones).The rod bolts are the weak link in the conrod.You should be able to get that done for around about 400-500.this is less than half the price of forged rods and these will easily handle the power you are after.Good luck!

[pnblight]

Hi,

I'm looking at rebuilding an RB26 out of an R32. At present the motor is still running fine, although it has done high kilometres and the oil pump is on its way out. I'm not looking for ridiculous power because this is my daily driver, but I do want a bit of power, reliability, and I want the option of close to ridiculous power later on.

I'm trying not to spend too much cash on parts, and I was wondering WHAT PARTS SHOULD I GET? At the moment I'm looking at.........

- N1 oil pump + collar

- head gasket metal or copper?

- Probably forged pistons, which ones?

- Probably not forged rods, should I though?

- Where can I save without too much compromise?

- Turbos?

If anyone knows any sites that give competitive pricing I would love to know. Thanks in advance.

Ok what you want is basically a stage one build and there a few things you really need to make sure you do now as if you miss them it's a hugh cost to come back to them. I will surgest a std performance build which i think most please won't disagree with but may wish to add to but it comes down to budget and where you draw the line.

Piston - Cp forged good price great quality (and forged pistons dont burn oil)

Rods - STD will be fine BUT YOU MUST get ARP rod bolt $99 (cheap insurance) atleast or if you have the budget there are good deals going around for forged rods.

Bearing - just get good bearing nissan stuff is fine and you can get spec'd shell in nissan (6 sizes)

Oil Pump - yeah N1 and Collar is sweet

Block - you need a oil gallery restrictor easiest way when you buy metal head gasket buy tomei head kit they come with one and other great gasket for the head (intake and exhaust)

Head - get the head checked out by people who know rb26 head they are different to the norm with large exhaust valve clearance and sodium filled valves (i think "proengines" on here is a good guy to talk to) a little port and polishing doesn't go astray, easy to do it now while motor is out(exhaust side mainly.

water pump - new item doesn't have to be N1 as there built to consistent high rpm.

And i most stress if you go to all this effort and you still have std turbo your putting the whole engine at risk no matter what model GTR it is (but especially r32) The best thing you can do to protect your nice new motor it replace the std turbo as there are time bombs if your going to lean on them. For like $2400 you can have two brand new garret GT2860R 707160-5 320hp turbos bolt on and will run well on a std motor up to a mild to heavy modded motor will plenty of responce and head room and will not blow a hugh whole in the budget. If you blow your std turbo to could destroy your freshly build engine and most of that money all down the drain. I mates going through this very issue now

pete

[R31Nismoid]

And i most stress if you go to all this effort and you still have std turbo your putting the whole engine at risk no matter what model GTR it is (but especially r32) The best thing you can do to protect your nice new motor it replace the std turbo as there are time bombs if your going to lean on them. For like $2400 you can have two brand new garret GT2860R 707160-5 320hp turbos

I agree with your whole post, but this is the most important by far

[cactu5]

Ok what you want is basically a stage one build and there a few things you really need to make sure you do now as if you miss them it's a hugh cost to come back to them. I will surgest a std performance build which i think most please won't disagree with but may wish to add to but it comes down to budget and where you draw the line.

Piston - Cp forged good price great quality (and forged pistons dont burn oil)

Rods - STD will be fine BUT YOU MUST get ARP rod bolt $99 (cheap insurance) atleast or if you have the budget there are good deals going around for forged rods.

Bearing - just get good bearing nissan stuff is fine and you can get spec'd shell in nissan (6 sizes)

Oil Pump - yeah N1 and Collar is sweet

Block - you need a oil gallery restrictor easiest way when you buy metal head gasket buy tomei head kit they come with one and other great gasket for the head (intake and exhaust)

Head - get the head checked out by people who know rb26 head they are different to the norm with large exhaust valve clearance and sodium filled valves (i think "proengines" on here is a good guy to talk to) a little port and polishing doesn't go astray, easy to do it now while motor is out(exhaust side mainly.

water pump - new item doesn't have to be N1 as there built to consistent high rpm.

And i most stress if you go to all this effort and you still have std turbo your putting the whole engine at risk no matter what model GTR it is (but especially r32) The best thing you can do to protect your nice new motor it replace the std turbo as there are time bombs if your going to lean on them. For like $2400 you can have two brand new garret GT2860R 707160-5 320hp turbos bolt on and will run well on a std motor up to a mild to heavy modded motor will plenty of responce and head room and will not blow a hugh whole in the budget. If you blow your std turbo to could destroy your freshly build engine and most of that money all down the drain. I mates going through this very issue now

pete

This is the sort of advice I was looking for. I'm trying to keep parts costs atleast below 7K, including rebuilding the head, and adding turbos and this setup looks good, as well as much cheaper than what I was looking at, so thanks.

I will save money by getting the tomei head kit because I wont have to get another head gasket. The turbos are also cheaper than I was looking at, and they'll do the job. I'll make sure I use the rod bolts.

[wrxhoon]

)

Head - get the head checked out by people who know rb26 head they are different to the norm with large exhaust valve clearance and sodium filled valves (i think "proengines" on here is a good guy to talk to) a little port and polishing doesn't go astray, easy to do it now while motor is out(exhaust side mainly.

I think you will find that the inlet valve clearance should be bigger at .45mm (18thou") and the exhaust .38 mm(15 thou"). On most heads the exhaust side has larger clearance, RB26's are the other way around .

[pnblight]

)

I think you will find that the inlet valve clearance should be bigger at .45mm (18thou") and the exhaust .38 mm(15 thou"). On most heads the exhaust side has larger clearance, RB26's are the other way around .

your right

But i'm talking about stem clearances of the valve guides not cam lobs clearances

pete

[gun32gtr]

hey mate ive spent 7k or more and havnt touched the motor,althought if u shop round like i should have u will save money by buying good 2nd hand stuff i.e turbos injectors etc

good luck

[pnblight]

This is the sort of advice I was looking for. I'm trying to keep parts costs atleast below 7K, including rebuilding the head, and adding turbos and this setup looks good, as well as much cheaper than what I was looking at, so thanks.

I will save money by getting the tomei head kit because I wont have to get another head gasket. The turbos are also cheaper than I was looking at, and they'll do the job. I'll make sure I use the rod bolts.

yeah no worries

if you have any further question only a pm away and i like many other guys on here have built a few rb26 of different levels expirence is a handy thing.

pete

[wrxhoon]

your right

But i'm talking about stem clearances of the valve guides not cam lobs clearances

pete

I thought you said valve clearance, stem to guide clearance is double on the exhaust valves at around 2-3 thou" from memory and about 1-1.5 thou"on the inlet.

[GTRgeoff]

Just jumping in with a quick red herring, since the usual suspects are on.

Who has CP pistons? I called Rocket for Arias 1.5mmOS for the RB25DETT and they think there will be 8 weeks wait. Personally I'd like to get the block in before that.

Any other alternatives? Wiseco? I have a great report on those in Honda but what about in teh RB's? PM or email if you don't want to whore this thread.