Jump to content
SAU Community

Interesting Brake Setup

Eug

By Eug,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

1000115hr3.jpg

1000116am5.jpg

first time i've seen something like this.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/4075/1000183hf6.jpg

found on this car.

i'm thinking its a drifter? and one pair of the rear calipers is hooked up to a hydralic handbrake or something.

sharing is caring =P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147550-interesting-brake-setup/
Share on other sites
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Yeah i can see the practicality for a drifter with a hydr hand brake...

I dont see it as a twin setup for normal braking, as why woudl you not just upgrade to 4 pot brakes and a larger disc.

This would be easier. Also how would you balance the brakes for not only performance but for heat if they were used in the same application...

My money is that its a handbrake drift setup as the drum hand brake on 33's is not flash for snap braking...

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I cant speak for porche but i know ferrari use the twin setuip quite a bit...

The reason for this is you can achieve a greater surface area on the rear disc for general braking application because you dont need the drum setup for the hand brake...

It makes perfect sense... As for porche I have not really any idea, but the few i have seen like the GT3's that race up here at QLD raceway they all seem to have 6-8 pot front cal's and 4-6 pot rears...

So i can say i have seen a dual setup on a race spec porche, but as i said I dont really know porche's. My old man called them expensive VW's when i was a kid and taught me the ways of Ford and Holden... :(

Bathurst taught me skyline was king of the mountain...

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

I remember seeing something like this on a BTCC car a few years back. The calipers were opposite each other though.

Don't see this setup much anymore so I guess single caliper setup was much more effective.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

When you see it on the McLaren F1 and other exotics you will find that they are typically a 4 pot for brakign and a single piston/twin piston for handbrake.

Some race cars do it for enduro racing as the increase in pad area means that have been able to save time in the pits by elminating the need for a pad change

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

the secondary brake on a ferrari etc is definitely for handbrake - you'll notice that there is no offset part in the rotor for the drum handbrake.

it may have also been done because of the two piece nature of a ceramic rotor, and the desire the use an aluminium hat to reduce weight (rather than a cast iron drum like the harrop solutions - which by what i can see is cast iron)

99-KC17R19A18_sticker.jpg

SLVR32GTR Community Regular

SLVR32GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
You also increase your unsprung weight.

?? No it wouldnt. The calipers dont require the power of the engine to spin them, they are stationary as the disc moves, so it wouldnt affect the unsprung weight at all. And as stated above, by making the drum brakes at the rear redundant, you can use a lighter material such as aluminium for the hat, so if anything you are reducing the unsprung weight.

EDIT: Oops my bad, im getting unsprung weight mixed up with the rotational mass components, ie, wheels, drive shafts, brake discs etc. But what are the cons of increasing the unsprung mass?? Doesnt it just come down to a trade off between bump absorbtion and vibration?? As above in my previous, wouldnt it actually still be beneficial to reduce the ROTATIONAL MASS in the system by using lighter materials for the brake disc composition (by no longer needing heavy hats for drum brakes)? This would negate any weight added by an extra caliper system, as well as minusing the weight of the existing drum brake setup. Of course, this only applies to a rear twin caliper setup.

Edited by SLVR32GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...