Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I sold the GTR early last year to go back to a GTST. GTRs are an awesome machine but since I like doing tracks days regularly it just became too much spending all my money on the car. I really wanted a series 2 33 sedan in manual and I was lucky enough for this example to come up in a yard on the Gold Coast. It needed work as nearly all skylines do but it was pretty clean and very straight so I snapped it up. The Nismo LM GT2 helped a bit too.

First thing I did was roll it straight to Chapman and Chapman as there were a few mechanical things that needed to be addressed ASAP. Had the full major service performed with all the usual things; timing belt, tensioners, water pump, new plugs, all new filters, etc. A few other things needed to be done also; I had the turbosmart boost contoller removed back to stock soleniod, a new sump put on as the other had a dent in it, replaced the exhaust manifold as the existing one was cracked. Mechanically the car was now given a clean bill of health and drove so much nicer. Next I chased down a stock air-box and snorkel and replaced the K&N pod with the stock box and a K&N panel filter, the noise from pod filters shits me, I must be getting old :)

Next I came across a 100mm thick SMIC out of an R34 GTT, brand unknown. Its a huge unit for a SMIC and gave a very noticeable improvement of the stock SMIC. That combined with 10psi from a turbotech boost controller, and the kakimoto cat back the car came with it was now starting to feel like a GTST should.

Next I PM'd Sydneykid and ordered shocks, springs, swaybars and pineapples through his group buy. Best money spent yet, those items combined with my Cusco rear camber arms, Cusco front caster rods and tension rod, Cusco 1-way diff, Nismo front strut brace with brake cylinder stopper, DBA slotted 4000 front rotors and Hawk pads front and rear and Nismo single plate clutch make this the easiest car I have owned to drive in any conditions, whether it be circuit, skidpan, drag, city driving or through the mountains, its a pleasure anywhere.

The car was recently vandalised so it has been fully resprayed thanks to insurnace and has come up very well. Just yesterday I bought a CES split front pipe and a metal cat so I am keen to fit them hopefully tomorrow. Not sure where I will go next, not keen to burn too much more money, the GTR has left some bad feeling with spending alot on a car again, but I am happy with were it is atm. A nice clean, practical, reliable car which I can still enjoy down at the track. . . . .

med_gallery_1841_122_52708.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_129242.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_2408249.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_1793865.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_573222.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_77079.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_225175.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_162704.jpg

med_gallery_1841_122_372012.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147957-series-2-33-sedan/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

nice ride, i have a series 1 4dr, and pulled out the stock seats as quick as i could, they are terrible!

nothing a good pair of recaros couldnt fix though :)

Series 2 tail lights for the win, whats it like on the track?

Have been looking for a pair of 33 GTR seats, recaros or brides. . . .which ever comes up first at the right price. Bracing myself with my knees at the track is getting a little annoying :)

So far I am about 1.5 to 2 secs a lap slower then my old 33 GTR V-spec with basically the same level of modification. . . . . Although I think I can narrow that gap a little as my semis where pretty much shagged and I also developed a boost leak during the last outing also which hampered me a bit. I reckon I can get it down to less than a sec different. In the dry GTRs really aren't that much quicker and I certainly use less fuel in the sedan on track days!

So far my best down the quarter is 13.93, that was before I installed the CES front pipe so I am sure I can shave a little off that too as it definately feels stronger now.

Hey Jason, where are you looking for the Bride seats and are they recliners??

Interested myself, but for the coupe, so they need to be recliners.

They are definately recliners, Bride Ergo. They turned up on Friday, should be in by this afternoon if all goes to plan :)

I was lucky enough to pick them up off a guy in the SAU forsale section, they hadn't been fitted to a car yet and came with rails. They do come up every now and then, I have just been checking the forsale section regularly, I just missed out on a pair of recaros before Christmas. . . .

post-1841-1168203479.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

They were a pest to put in. The rails that came with them were supposed to be the super-low ones but there was nothing super-low about them. Had some custom ones made up and they sit the same height as the stock seats did now, and there is no way they could go any lower. Damn that buldge in the floor on the passenger side!

But apart from that the are a huge improvement on the standard seat, heaps more support and a lot more comfortable thatn I expected. Apart from the extra cost incurred in get custom rails made up I am one happy customer :)

gallery_1841_122_29612.jpg

gallery_1841_122_31689.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
very nice

love the seats, what were they worth?

Too much :laugh:

I managed to track down one of those Nissan option grill things on the weekend. Have been scouring the for sale section, even the yahoo auction for months, and finally one came up down the Gold Coast. A good excuse to cruise down to the coast for the day. I think they look a little dressier.

gallery_1841_122_8276.jpg

It is a stock colour although after the respray it has come out a little darker than it was to start with..... errrrr, Not knowing exactly what each line is on the plate, chassis and engine are pretty easy, KN6 looks like a likely suspect for the paint code.

Sound like one??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...