Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. ive been doing alot of reading about rebuilds on the rb26 incase my one is up for one (which i wont find out till next month), but i couldnt find any information about dropping a r33 gtr engine into my '90 32gtr instead of rebuilding it. know i know theyre almost the same engine. but i do know the clutch (push/pull, dont even know if this is affected by the engine swap?) stuff is different. is there anything else that needs to be changed? or is it pretty much a in and out job?

ive found a series 3 33gtr engine pretty cheap so yeah id like to know if its worth going down that road? as i do not want to rebuild a power machine where i see people spending 10-15k on a engine, i jus want reliability and abit of power say upto 300kw max. watever will get my 11's ill be happy :)

only looking towards this way because i could always sell my current engine off and recover quite abit of the money back from buying the 33gtr engine.

thanks, if i didnt search properly jus let me know and give me the link lol :sick:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148120-engine-swap/
Share on other sites

there should be no problem swapping motors. there are a few little differences, but 32 ecu should run your new 33 engine no problem.

i dont think it's such a bad idea providing you choose your new engine very carefully and perform as many checks on it as you're able to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148120-engine-swap/#findComment-2765626
Share on other sites

For such a swap to be worthwhile, you would want to be finding a mint condition R33 GTR engine and in doing so you will most likely be paying a reasonable amount.

Rebuilding your existing engine would make more sense, especially if you intend to further modify and after the rebuild you would effectively have a brand new engine for not far off the cost of buying a replacement used engine.

The rebuild itself doesnt need to be a ball-breaker either - A good set of forged pistons, N1 Oil & Water Pump, ARP rod bolts, new gaskets throughout and some Tomei sump baffles and you will be on your way :D Of course once you start its easy to blow the budget so work to a plan!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148120-engine-swap/#findComment-2765845
Share on other sites

hmm i think i will go the rebuild way.. so with forged pistons, N1 Oil & Water Pump, ARP rod bolts, new gaskets throughout and some Tomei sump baffles that is enough for a engine rebuild? as stated im not after huge power. 300kw & a reliable engine that will last me a couple of years with the occasional track/strip work is more then enough for me..

damn and i was reading all these other different parts i thought you needed hahah. a rebuild like that would cost say about 6-7k inc labour? would seem more worthwhile

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148120-engine-swap/#findComment-2766510
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...