Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

I'm currently building a rb20 for drifting with (so midrange is pretty important). Anyway I had a gt30 with .63 internal housing, but the courier has lost it etc etc.

What I'm wondering is: What turbo should I replace it with for 240+ kw that isnt "too" laggy.. And do I need aftermarket cams or will adjustable cam gears on the stock items do?

I have had a read through the rb20 dyno thread and the tdo6 and gt30 seem to be the most common turbos at that power output. However all this talk of different trim sizes etc confuses the crap out of me :)

Would it be better to mix and match parts to make the ideal turbo? Similar to what disco potato is doing in his gt30 thread? (id imagine his gt30 is designed for the rb25??)

My setup so far is :

Rb20det

6 boost exhaust manifold

oz power front facing plenum

aerospeed adjustable cam gears

gtr injectors

040 bosch fuel pump

Anyway any help would be apreciated :/

Dan.

Edited by Smooth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/
Share on other sites

If you want mid-range... HKS 2530.

Although, you wont make much more than 220rwkw, but its probably the best choice which will give you the meatiest mid-range you'll ever get from an RB20

Otherwise maybe a set up to a HKS 2835, bigger so little extra power for less mid.

Or even an RB25 hi-flowed turbo would be in that park also and a bit cheaper

But yea, as you have said, the GT30 series is really more RB25 territory, even if you used a .63 rear. It will be quite "peaky".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2768665
Share on other sites

There was a thread on here a few months back where the author had a 2871 core in rb25 housings. Did a quick search, can't find it. Anyone else remember?

Yeap, thats one of my Mates, DaleFZ1. Just send him a PM asking him for the specs. He said the turbo is excellent.

His thread is gone, I think they prune SAU? I think its a silly idea... (to prune good threads)

Can someone confirm, this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2774197
Share on other sites

HKS GT-RS is more or less a GT2871 ready to bolt on with all lines elbows etc for around $2700. this will get you into your power range.

certainly you can do it cheaper with garrett gear directly but dale will probably attest to a little running around to achieve his results. when time = money buying a bolt-on might be the go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2774659
Share on other sites

2.7k for ONE turbo kit is mighty rich.

GT-SS (twin TT) sells for 3.3k (landed if you pay tax) so 2.7k kit for a single IMO is rich.

The Garrett will be $1700 or less.

When the kit for GT-SS copies is 2.6k vs 3k for the kit (untaxed) then they are worth the gamble of the customs irregularities.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2774768
Share on other sites

Here is the thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=127600&hl=

Has a few pics and other details that might help.

The core used was a 48T GT2871R - CHRA 446179-5031. This is smaller than that used in the HKS GT-RS. The only common componentry between this one and a Garrett GT28RS is the 53.8mm turbine; it has a 71mm (vs 60mm) compressor.

I'm totally satisfied with the performance outcome on RB25. At a guess I would say it would be very useful on a RB20, but allow maybe a few hundred rpm difference in response. It will give lots of mid range punch. Plenty of data log runs shows that on a winding road run I rarely run over 5500 before changing up, mostly run on the fat mid range and early boost.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2774939
Share on other sites

We do not prune threads.

What on EARTH gives you that idea?

No threads go, no threads get deleted.

Simple

haha jus thought that might have happened becaus I did a search and onl got limited results..

any reason for this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2774943
Share on other sites

2.7k for ONE turbo kit is mighty rich.

GT-SS (twin TT) sells for 3.3k (landed if you pay tax) so 2.7k kit for a single IMO is rich.

The Garrett will be $1700 or less.

When the kit for GT-SS copies is 2.6k vs 3k for the kit (untaxed) then they are worth the gamble of the customs irregularities.

latest price from nengun for HKS GT-RS is $2534. as posted before it can be done cheaper buying something without a HKS tag but there is more running around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2777160
Share on other sites

why have u chosen a gt30? from my knowledge of drifting (jack all) you need good average power, bad suspension setup (to make it slide) and good response. i dont think a gt30 will give you any of those attributes on an rb20. a hks 2530 or rb25 should however, cheaper ($500 for an rb25) and then get a really good tune with a real exhaust, should yield good average power. then work the suspension to give maximum sliding ability

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2777179
Share on other sites

I take it your askign me?

I was only using the gt30 as it was only costing me 1300 brand new and had the rb20 friendly .63 housing. I knew it would be laggy but just wanted to try it out :)

Doesnt matter now as it got lost in the mail. Looking at a highflow turbo now.

Cant say I agree with the "you need crappy suspension to drift" line though :iluvff: My car is set up to grip, with with good tyres. Id get better tyres but until the car is going, I wont know if it can spin anything more sticky :P You still need grip when your sideways remember :ninja:

Edited by Smooth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148327-rb20-with-gt30/#findComment-2777229
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...