Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

WOW - got my bush bearing high flow turbo today - Sliding Performance RB25 rated at 250rwkw at 1bar.

Im hoping for around 200awkw at 1bar once dynotuned at Graham West autos on the 4wd dyno, the safc and sitc will need a fair tweek I reckon. But I'll tell 'em you got 3hrs to do the job :happy: hehehe dont want to spend too much.

But putting it on the Stagea on Monday - cant wait !!! so excited ! :sorcerer:

hopefully it all works out smoothly, a backyarder install job so it'll be fun.

Im a bit limited atm tho to kneeling and all that, yet.

Plus I dont know when I'll be able to get it tuned. So I'll keep it to 10psi for now. :P

anyways, happy days

Brendan, all the best with the turbo install.

Actually I was just today wondering why the guy that tuned my car only left the boost at 11psi?! He reckoned if he put the boost any higher it'd hit boost cut - is that true? I thought there was no boost/fuel cut or anything - its just if the ecu detects too much airflow it will hit R&R??

Made me wonder if I took it to a different tuner would they be able to get more power out of it....hmmm.

yeah itd hit R&R (not boost cut) - but thats what your safc is for. plsu maybe a z32 afm sometime down the track. with a front mount and a tune at 1bar youd see good results.

isn't the stock r34 cooler meant to be good for 200awkw or close to? sure it wouldn't be at max efficiency at this level but I'm thinking I'd just get the power first and worry about that later - as long as its cool enough. One step at a time :P

I want to boost it to 14-15psi eventually (like u said ~1bar). THEN it can stay like that (think i've said that before lol).

Also the z32 would only be necessary once the stock afm is maxxed out - correct? still a little way off yet. I reckon I could squeeze another 10-15awkw out of it just by upping the boost and re-tuning...what ya reckon?

I'm getting 13L/100km city driving to/from work with aircon on half the time which I think is fantastic. I've seen 12.5L/100 and that included about 10% with aircon on...so I reckon there's still more leeway for more boost yeah?

Also, not sure why but my stock boost solenoid is still connected up to the intake piping as per before (not connected to wastegate tho - only the manual boost controller connects to that - and it appears to be done properly). Not sure if this would affect my boost level somehow - could be why its dropping off to 9psi?? Most people had good results with the needle valve boost controllers holding boost...but not me. If it held 11psi all the way I'd pick up 10awkw just there...

sounds great !

my thoughts are, with the safc, if you are going to retune it for more power; a) either tune for more power say at 13psi and pick up that 10+awkw, perhaps using a good EBC, or b) tune it once so supply the good EBC, a good FMIC and a Z32 afm and do it all at one, hell maybe even a bosch 040 fuel pump.

just that with the safc, if you add a fmic on right now your tune gets a bit outa whack - I noticed this with an aibox mod and also with the fmic install I did. ebay and it was cheap. ;) with the safc if you add bits and pieces here and there it puts the tune outa whack, etc.

she'll be right, all in good time hey. :P

sounds great !

my thoughts are, with the safc, if you are going to retune it for more power; a) either tune for more power say at 13psi and pick up that 10+awkw, perhaps using a good EBC, or b) tune it once so supply the good EBC, a good FMIC and a Z32 afm and do it all at one, hell maybe even a bosch 040 fuel pump.

just that with the safc, if you add a fmic on right now your tune gets a bit outa whack - I noticed this with an aibox mod and also with the fmic install I did. ebay and it was cheap. :P with the safc if you add bits and pieces here and there it puts the tune outa whack, etc.

she'll be right, all in good time hey. :(

yeah i was thinking about that too - even if I just want to wind the boost up a bit - it'd need a retune to work properly.

Not worth the $$ for a retune just for 10kw gain in my opinion. so i decided its better to wait until the next "upgrade" stage and do multiple things at once. better value for money that way...

still, no rush. Have been over the moon about the performance of the stag since my last tune. :P

that is, except for when the weather is hot, and the aircon must go on - turns the car into a slug, needing much higher revs than normal to get it to move :/

nothing better than taking the car out for a thrash on a cold night...makes it really go! :)

A little way to get around the R&R is to bump up fuel pressure and pull a heap of airflow out of it. The only issue with this that the ecu essentially runs on a lesser load point that runs more ignition timing. This will gain you a little more power before you hit r&r but after that you really need to drop an ITC on it.

OR... See Apexi are canning the Powerfc and have a type of piggy back full ecu replacement.. so still use the stock ecu but runs as a emanage type piggy back setup. It appears to look the goods and hopefully as they are canning the pfc it will be just as good as a full ecu.

A little way to get around the R&R is to bump up fuel pressure and pull a heap of airflow out of it. The only issue with this that the ecu essentially runs on a lesser load point that runs more ignition timing. This will gain you a little more power before you hit r&r but after that you really need to drop an ITC on it.

OR... See Apexi are canning the Powerfc and have a type of piggy back full ecu replacement.. so still use the stock ecu but runs as a emanage type piggy back setup. It appears to look the goods and hopefully as they are canning the pfc it will be just as good as a full ecu.

sounds great!

will look into it for sure :huh:

there is a nude male wrestling seen in which there is various sex position action which is highly disturbing. other than that borat is worth the money. he preys on americans total ignorance and stupidity and even made money off the people in skit. they are all real as they are skits. truly ingenious.

Cubes - any suggestion on how to (calmly) :) put the top turbo water feed banjo hard up against the turbo and feed the bolt in? Due to using the washers its just too much of a handful........

The top water feed?

You mean the side water feed/return? The top feed should be oil.

The side water feed/return closest to the block can be a pain in the arse as the inside washer falls down easily. I have in the past used a little petroleum jelly to hold it in place while I get the thread to take as it can some times be slightly off and quite stress full. :)

yeah, cheers mate. My thoughts late last night were to stick the washer down first with something, say oil or grease or gasket goop etc, and then get that thread to take.

oh well, back to finish off the job

ta mate.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...