Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I've seen a few threads on here talking about a few different boost Electronic Boost Controllers in the past, but I think it's time for a full review of what's now out there on the market, 1 because there seems to be a lot of new stuff out there & 2 I want 1 & need to make a decision on what to get :nyaanyaa:.

Seriously though I think this would be useful for everyone on here, now & in the future. So if you've had or have an EBC, please give us a bit of info of how well you think it works as a boost controller as well as how usefull it is for it's other functions, ease of fitment etc.

Amoung some ones at present I have been eyeing off myself there is:

Apexi AVC-R

Blitz SBC i-D III

Blitz SBC i-Colour

HKS EVC V

Gizzmo iBC

Greddy Profec B-spec II

Please don't limit this thread just to these because your controller isn't listed. If you've got a different controller please post comments good & bad.

NOTE: this is not a thread for the cheapest boost controller you can find (not interested in bleed valves thankyou), that thread can be found elsewhere in the Quick ref list that R31Nismoid has provided.

Cheers

Edited by JazzaR33
  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive got a profec type-s but ill be ditching it soon for a better one.when i had the standard turbo it would waver about 1-2psi but now that ive upgraded my turbo i get around 2-3psi waver at full throttle. Its very easy to adjust but just cant seem to hold steady boost

AVC-R Black

had no probs. only good things, controlls boost well so far, controlls spiking so well i havnt even noticed it spike once. does what i tell it to do, easy to use, easy to install, and easy to understand usermanual :nyaanyaa:. great EBC !. Too bad apexi going out of business!

i had a avcr before but it seemed to spike alot. it was already tuned by belgarage as well. ive bought a hks evc III i should receive next week. its supposed to be the goods if you just need a boost controller to do its job and not all that other fancy stuff.

I was just about to buy a GReddy Profec E-01 EBC as I was also going to buy an E-Manage Ulitmate down the track but I have just found out the E-01 can only program / monitor the older Blue version E-Manage. How stupid is that!

Does anyone know if there is a new model coming out anytime soon that can interface with the E-Manage Ultimate? Also are the Profec E-01 EBC's any good?

HKS EVC III the older style red/green display one.

set and forget. has duty control, scramble boost and safety back off.

no need for fancy crap, just accurate control and cheap.

i brought mine from r33 perfecto about 2 years for $250

Turbotech $22 FTW!!

it does just as good a job as the profec b spec

From what I've already heard from others, not just on here is that the Profec B-spec isn't really that good. At least you wouldn't be wasting as much money.

Apexi AVCR Blue Screen version.

I love this EBC...you can have 2 settings...easy to change while driving...easy to see whats happening. can chnage pretty much everything I would need...like rev specific boost etc...although I have never done it.

Hasn't spiked once...I am running it at 1.3 bar atm...seems to b smooth as...

Not that I have used anything else.

Either profec B1 or B2. They're both excellent controllers. No spiking, just abit of drop off of 1-1.5psi but I suspect that has something to do with the factory turbos, or its actuators.

Or I suggest just a Turbotech MBC, set once and forget. No need for two stage BS, controller the amount of power with your right foot. :happy:

Hybrid dual stage ebc. Was perfect at 12psi with the stnd turbo.

With the Slide highflow and retune (safc/sitc) I expect it to be pretty much steady at 1bar.

With the highflow on and set at 13psi untuned the engine just ramps up to speed! Having fun playing with the 2 dialup settings, watchn the fuel drain out, and feeling R&R / boost cut whatevea ya wanna call it, at 14psi !

:happy: :sorcerer:

I have a Gizzmo IBC, its a great little unit, has self learn mode, close loom controll, 4 settings, and dam does it try to get set boost fast. I can have 12 psi at 3000 rpm in fifth.

The only down fall, is that my car has shocking boost creep, and it means that the EBC can only do so much. I am getting an adjustable actuator to try and cure it, failing that, got a new housing wiht a larger wastgate hole.

BUt for the price, they rock.

Turbotech Boost Controller

Cost:

$22

Pros:

Cheap, Concealable, Works Well

Cons:

No control over GAIN etc that you get with a good EBC

Also found that it dropped boost at higher PSI levels

Hybrid Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller

Cost:

$250

Pros:

Cheap, Easy to Install (kinda), Easy to Use

Cons:

No control over GAIN etc that you get with a good EBC

Does not monitor boost levels and compensate for drop off

Nothing more than a electronic solenoid

Experience; could not hold 1 bar, kept dropping a good 5PSI

Greddy Profec E-01

Cost:

$630

Pros:

Feature Packed; Complete Control; Large Display; Remote Control; Data Logging; Custom Boost Monitoring

Cons:

Trying to find a place to put that screen and running all the cables neatly... (mission and a half this was)

Apexi AVCR. Used to be a hater but now I'm a believer. Takes a while to set up but once its tweaked to perfection I would say its one of the best. Certainly never spikes and it has very good closed loop feedback from watching the solenoid duty vs boost whilst on full throttle. HEAPS of functions for the tweakers out there like myself. Don't be conned into thinking its 'only' a 'single solenoid' - a solenoid is only as good as the brains controlling it. HKS used a stepper motor and still do.

Cons? Its too bloody big and Apexi should have released a new version by now.

hks evc 4. black limitied edition one

looks like this

img_black.jpg

pros, looks nice sitting in its cardboard box!

cons, no fkn ednglighhsshhhh instructions. found a few on the web but they have slight variation!

p.s. installing today

Edited by Angus Smart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...