Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well with my Green Ps soon to expire I thought it would be a good time to sit for my full liscence... so I've booked myself in for 9am tomorrow morning (gotta squeeze it into 2006).

Also just spent the last hour reading all 94 pages of that hand book - pretty self explanatory stuff (apart from the emphasis on statistics). Did all the online tests and passed...

Questions:

1) Should this be sufficient preparation?

2) How much emphasis is there on the stats in the actual test?

3) Is the DQT a lot harder than say the Greens?

4) What's the best option after you pass; 1yr or 3yrs :O

Thanks + wish me luck for tomorrow :P

S

>_<:laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149056-going-for-fulls-dqt-rta-nsw/
Share on other sites

Yes, unfortunately for us younger generation the RTA has turned the liscencing system into some money laundering scam... there's a total of 4 tests now (each with associated costs) before you can call yourself a "liscenced driver"

Thanks, will get the 3yr if I pass >_<

from memory the final full licence test is not that hard. they do the usual trick of asking a few misleading questions, but you are allowed a couple of mistakes so dont sweat it too much. just keep reading that book right up to the time you go in for the test. >_<

yeah, if you have good driving history they will let you get the 5 year gold licence. get it if it's available to you as: 1. it's cheaper, and 2. you'll get to have the same picture for 5 years. so when your 30 you'll have a pic of yourself at 25. though that may be a negative and just make you feel old.

You'd need a crystal clean history then right?

I've only ever been picked up once and that was for a stop sign - you think this will be "good" enough?

You don't have to be perfect to get a gold license. I got mine when I had 4 demerits.

You just have to hold a full license 5 years without a suspension.

Ok stanny boy, I am the guru on the test. If you want, give me a buzz with any questions, and i'll explain it all to you. I've pmed you my number.

But basically, the knowledge test isn't your usual road rules. They exmaine you on statistics. e.g. being a bogan makes you x times more likely to crash. Drinking while getting a blow job is x times more likely to crash.

for the other part, it's scenario based where you touch the screen. There is a catch. you have to touch the screen more than once, unlike the green p test which you only have to touch once. there is a special technique to this one.

for more info, give us a buzz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...