Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Orc lightweight flwheel (-4kgs)

Hicas removed (-20kg)

Nismo LM GT-4 18x7.5 forged alloy lightweight wheels (-15kg)

Rays Engineering duralumin wheel nuts

Gtr bonnet (-15kg)

Stripped boot/interior(no back seats or steabelts) (-15kg)

removed driving lights (5kg)

Nismo mats (front only fwiw)

Gtr seats (-10kg)

no rear speakers (-5kg)

removed stock rear spoiler (-5kg)

= 95kgs :no:

Added,

front and rear strut bars (4kg)

turbo timer, ebc, 2 guages, alarm (5kg)

intercooler (5kg)

gtr rear spoiler (sometimes off) (10kg)

= 25kg max

1360 - 70 = 1290 :)

Notes: standard spare, jack are still in boot, not leaving home without them :P Center seatbelt is gone, along with the plugs for the side seatbelts. Side seatbelts and trims remain.

All feedback welcome!, i gotta get this dog under 1300 :no:

;)

post-4425-1167378594.jpg

Edited by 2630GTS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149105-lightweight-mods/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is your car a r32 gtst coupe?? if so i thought they were 1320kg from factory?, i have heard that the older r32's (1989-1991) were lighter as the newer r32's have extra side intrusion beems or something along those lines which adds weight to them, also factory fitted options like sunroof,abs etc will add more weight to your car.

My old 1989 r32 gtst 4door auto with sunroof and no abs weighed 1330kg on a weight bridge with full standard interior, sounds, coilovers, 17"s, front mount, front and rear strut braces, so your car could possibly already be under 1300kg with the parts that you have removed.

sound deadening stuff... pain in the A to remove, but if you want KG's, its a good place also

plus things like batteries also. is another one

apparantly using dry ice to freeze the sound deadener then hitting it with a hammer is an easy way to remove it, i'll be testing it out soonish on my torana.

was suggested in Majanal's drift car build up thread in the drift section

and going as far as empty washer bottles, they hold a few ltrs so there is a few kg's there

Good point about the battery, ill change that when i move it to the boot.

I dont want to go overboard and empty the washer bottles, i really just want to get it under 1300kgs, with half a tank of fuel would be nice too ;)

For now wont be removing anything else except the air con and last of the rear seatbelts.

Just wondering on what people thought of the weights i came up with and weather or not i would be under 1300.

Edited by 2630GTS
Its a 93 coupe with sunroof and abs. I though stock weight was 1360 without the sunroof and abs, hmm.

Good to know a weight someone has actually got from a weighbridge tho, thanks ;)

R33 GTS25T coupes are quoted by nissan to weigh 1360kg so i highly doubt a r32 gtst will be the same weight lol, also if your driving by yourself most of the time you could remove the passengers seat as they do weigh a bit, and you could remove other things like both rear seats, parcel tray, aircon if you dont use it, glovebox, remove anything that you dont need and leave the bare essentials if you want to get serious.

im not sure what my 33 4 door weighs in at, my aim is to get it down to 1100kg, i think ill be pushing my luck but

note, its a race car

ive pulled out everything, literally, the only thing the interior will have left, is two momo seats, a set of harness's, and the dash, with nothing behind it, no air boxes, no fan unit, no plastic trims, no roof lining no nothing.

Saddly, i loose all that, but have picked up about 50-70kg of roll cage..

sound deading is easy to remove as mentioned, use dry ice, lay it about an inche thick on the area you want to remove, give it 5-10 minutes, clear the ice away, and wack it with a hammer, or just lever the side of it with a screw driver, should break up in bits, some will be harder to remove and may need more time witht he ice, but it'll eventually come away..

for anything thats left, grab a die grinder, and hit bunnings for what is effectivly a plastic scourer in a disc form, it'll get rid of what remainds quick as a flash

other stuff ive done is turf the heavy stock bonnet for a fibre glass jun copy bonnet

plexiglass side windows, 3mm thick, removed the rear door window motors, front and rear windscreens are still glass

other stuff to come is a complete reqire of the car, when i get a motec for it, so ill loose probably nearly 50kg of wire that just does not need to be there

also will be going for new fibreglass front and rear bumpers and guards..

there is a lot more i could do, but itd mean no fast glass front windows, and lots of holes carefully cut in various bits of the body, which im not so fond on the idea of..

if your really cashed up, you can get carbon fibre doors for 33 coupes, you'll pick up a good 30kg a door from those alone

and if your really keen, strip the thing to a bare shell, and dunk it in a pot of acid, to thin out the panels, the WRC cars egt this treatment, other people i know grab a belt sander and manually thin out the panels, read floor etc

plexiglass side windows, 3mm thick

Id be thinking of this one, where did u get yours from, im thinking of having the sunroof remade from plastic too.

I just made templates of the old windows from floor lino, and texta outlined them onto some plastic sheet, then cut with a saw, bandsaw works best, jig saw will cause it to break very easily

probably a wiser idea to use lexan, as its less likely to crack and break like plexiglass/perspex will

not sure on what lexan is per square meter tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...