Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

um no i dont have one really that i could lend you but you can just go buy one make sure it has a warranty then if you swap it over and the prob is still there just take it back and say its faulty.im not 100% sure if they can be electroncally tested maybe someone on here knows.but yeah good suggestion is to advance it first and see how you go.

thanks for the info, i think i will try a differnet cas and see if that fixes anything. its worth a try i guess.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just a quick question, is it that the car is just plain slow, or is it a start/stop/start/stop type of thing?

No its a start then stop thing. The tubo spools as normal but car serverley hisitates, almost undrivable, cant really take it over 2.5-3k

I dropped it into F.I.S.T. performance as they are local and one of the few workshops open today and the only works shop who would take the car with such little notice.

So fingers crossed i get it sorted and i will report back as to what the problem is.

I have found other posts with similar issues to what i experience but when they get it fixed no body reports how they fixed it :(

Hey guys! got it back from FIST performace, guys there where great very knowledgable.

Okay when it came in on the dyno it made 128rwhp.

List of things fixed.

- I had a busted fuel pressure regulator

- MY airflow meter was no good!! i tried 2 sensors previously and also resoldered one but that didnt solve it.

- Timming, The cas seems to be in a very advanced position, Tuner said for some reason this car needed a lot of timing to do anything. I know the car has had a rebuild from previous owner with pistons but thats all i know.

- boost 11psi

When it was sorted on the dyno it ran 270.9 RWHP or 202.1 RWKW.

Air fuel ratio varied from about 11.8 - 10. Tuner said it still runs very rich.

I have a SAFC neo comming so that should help things in that respect.

Does any one know why my car needs more timing than a normal r33?

And what do you guys think about the power figures? any thoughts?

Total aftermaket mods to this stage are,

- pod filter

- metal intake pipe

- walbro fuel pump

- FMIC delta fin style. piping is hybrid copy.

- dual stage turbo xs boost controller(low 9psi- high 11psi)

- GFB BOV switchable plumb back type.

Thanks for every ones ideas on this thread!

Are the Cams different?

Thats good power for 11psi.

It was more than just one thing wrong, no wonder you couldnt get it right.

I pretty happy :P

As far as i know the cams are stock, The previous owner claimed a rebuild and showed me some photocopy of a trade reciept for acl pistons but npothing else so i am doubtful if it is legit.

The Timing belt was changed a few months ago.

"R33S2" are u asking if the cams are differnet because the CAS seems to be in the far advanced position? im curious as to why this is too?

Yeah two things wrong makes it hard to diagnose, expecially when i ruled out airflow meter my trying two and resoldering one.

Cheers

I pretty happy :P

As far as i know the cams are stock, The previous owner claimed a rebuild and showed me some photocopy of a trade reciept for acl pistons but npothing else so i am doubtful if it is legit.

The Timing belt was changed a few months ago.

"R33S2" are u asking if the cams are differnet because the CAS seems to be in the far advanced position? im curious as to why this is too?

Yeah two things wrong makes it hard to diagnose, expecially when i ruled out airflow meter my trying two and resoldering one.

Cheers

it can mean a few things, aftermarket cams, timing belt fitted right??, qoute me if i'm wrong guys.

Check your Timing Belt Tensioner, they are a spring loaded mechanism from what i remember, if its broken timing belt could be far from taught and the reason you need to run spastic timing, if the covers are on your tuner wouldnt have seen shit.

Good to hear you got it sorted :P

Not surprised the AFM was a problem, but it's quite rare for the stock fuel pressure reg to die in my (limited) experience. I suppose they're not getting any younger so things are going to start playing up.

Dunno about the timing thing - maybe the cams have been timed, ie one or both have been advanced or retarded, so compared to where the CAS normally sits it might be a degree or two out. I'm probably completely off the mark but that's my best guess :rofl:

Your not wrong about these cars not getting any younger,

If it is the timing belt pretensioners woulnd they maybe casue the belt to slip? some times at idle there is a wirring sort of squiggle noise from the cas area. The cas bearings are fine so it may be a pretentioner?

Edited by tmc_2

maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth on 1 of the cams. how many k's on the car (in total, not just since rebuild). it may be that when the engine was rebuilt they didn't replace the timing belt, and it is due to be changed.

my mates 180sx that is having similar problems is overdue for its second timing belt (its done over 200,000ks). we have to keep the timing fully advanced to get it to perform. we tried jumping a tooth with the cas and it was way too advanced. we think the timing belt may have jumped a tooth.

maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth on 1 of the cams. how many k's on the car (in total, not just since rebuild). it may be that when the engine was rebuilt they didn't replace the timing belt, and it is due to be changed.

my mates 180sx that is having similar problems is overdue for its second timing belt (its done over 200,000ks). we have to keep the timing fully advanced to get it to perform. we tried jumping a tooth with the cas and it was way too advanced. we think the timing belt may have jumped a tooth.

total kays are 125thou , timming belt done at 117thou and rebuild i am gussing some where between 90 to 110thou.

SO u htink its worth getting then to check the timming belt is its alligned correctly?

Will it be fine to just leave alone?

thans Mad082

so u've still got the stock ecu? prolly best to get a power fc (or other) and get it tuned properly. i.e lean it out a bit, then you'll also be able to pull some timing out. it'll go harder, and it wont chew as much fuel >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...