Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As usual with these types of partitions, there is nowhere to get air from unless you have an FMIC with "over the radiator" return pipe.

Also there is no provision for the factory air intake.

For the $$ + postage you could make a better one yourself if you have the time, inclination, tools and patience...

Yeah id say your still liable to be defected. Especially if you install the neon they say comes with it or whatever. Nothing says "look at me/defect me" than a lit up box in your engine bay.

Besides the fact that the air inside that partition is going to heat up mighty quickly considering the perspex is going to do nothing to stop radiated heat.

You're better off going for an insulated opaque box painted black to look as factory as possible.

lazy bastard is right. make one yourself, custom fitted to your setup.

i saw these on ebay yesterday, and my first question was, what are these made of? they dont look like they'd keep heat out. they look like they'd melt if anything.

Putting an extra box on top of a pod filter doesn't turn it into something else.

If you have an aftermarket cooler, and a pod filter (regardless of whether the filter is in a restrictive box) you will still get defected.

lol you could build that yourself for $10 with supplies from bunnings, and you could even save yourself the embarrassment of having a neon light in your engine bay.

At best it'll keep hot air out, but I'd question the heat resistance of the unit, esp near a nice top mount setup etc. Its not gonna stop you from gettin defected.

with the heat of the engine bay perspex will melt and disform.

i have made heaps of heat sheilds to re-route air into the box and still cut engine heat and after a hell of a lot of testing i found what worked best.

using a stainless stell box was best with rubber on the side walls of the box. Also you cannot have a totally sealed box, it must have somewhere , where clean dense air can enter , either usinghte stock intake pipe or re-routing it from the front bumper :wave:

personally this ebay one wouldnt last too long im guessing

i made mine myself, will post pics soon, looks like factory. It's made out of an aluminum panel composite, called alucobond, 1mm aly 3 mm polyurathena a 1 mm aly again. Then all lined with 15mm thermoinsluation foam, and the air picked up from the fornt bar via old hole for cooler. Dropped the engine intake temps dramatically, will post some pics soon.

i made mine myself, will post pics soon, looks like factory. It's made out of an aluminum panel composite, called alucobond, 1mm aly 3 mm polyurathena a 1 mm aly again. Then all lined with 15mm thermoinsluation foam, and the air picked up from the fornt bar via old hole for cooler. Dropped the engine intake temps dramatically, will post some pics soon.

Will be interested to see some pics of your air box!

i have made two custom setups...with a new 3" intake form the front bar, covers etc.

I went back to stock..wacked in a trust high-flow filter and saw the same, if not better, dyno results. The sealed setup + pressure of the seal stock boxes make them hard to beat IMO. There have been numerous external tests which have showed without a sealed unit u are pretty much wasting ur time. After making numerous custom setups for both my cars...I now have stock airboxes...but beter ducting/intakes.

Makes no "whoosh" noise, and 1 less defect for them to get me on in the future

I'll post up some pics tonight for you. The box i have made is sealed, well preatty much.

So how does the stock box appear to give much better midrange torque? I did the enclosure as the car already came with the pod and so forth.

i use the stock airbox 2...

but im just wondering which external tests are these ???

whenever i take the lid of the airbox off i always get another 5kw or so on the dyno (its sucking in hotter air obviously.. which isnt good)

and evan when i cut a big hole in the side of the top of the airbox it gained another 3kw... so im curious how your airbox made a higher figure on the dyno than it would with a pod ????

There have been numerous external tests which have showed without a sealed unit u are pretty much wasting ur time.
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...