Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im just trying to suss out where to run my intercooler in my MR30 so if anyone has any pics of there setup on either a HR30 or MR30 post them up it would be a big help

This give you the right ideas?

Cheers, D

Pretty sums it all up well.

Im running mine thru where the radiator bottle usually sits. Drilled some 3" holes. Works well

thanks guys thats a huge help got any pics of your setup stagefumer11

thanks guys thats a huge help got any pics of your setup stagefumer11

It's not rocket science!

Just remove the overflow bottle and run both in & out pipes through the radiator support panel beside the radiator.

Cheers, D

It's not rocket science!

Just remove the overflow bottle and run both in & out pipes through the radiator support panel beside the radiator.

Cheers, D

i know it will go through the radiator support pannel fine but getting it around the Receiver Drier is my main concern cos i want to keep the Aircon

i know it will go through the radiator support pannel fine but getting it around the Receiver Drier is my main concern cos i want to keep the Aircon

Me too!

I guess the front of your MR and my HR are similar?

I will be sacrificing the headlight washer pump, but I think a bit of custom pipe work for the air con connection to the filter will be my only concern.

There is 60 & 70mm clearance over and in front of the filter for pipes to go.

The configuration and size of the intercooler is the biggest consideration. It is my belief that core sizes in the vicinity of 600 x 300 x 100 are a WOFTAM for our application. These things flow enough air for upwards to 1000HP and when we are talking in less than half, I can't see the point.

A long time back now rsx84 put me onto a DR30 HKS Drag Intercooler at Option 1 Garages in Brisbane. Everyone on this forum, including himself ignored it and dismissed it as it wasn't big enough for their application. What they didn't consider was the maker (HKS) and the purpose it was designed and built. It's only 400 x 280 x 65 core, but it flows a huge amount of air and enough to easily support 5 or 600HP. Some imaginative piping has to be made so it works with the L series, but it still is probably better than the monsters they fit to their own vehicles.

Some on these forums believe stock R32 & R33 intercoolers will flow 350HP and thats more than enough for a turbo L24E and are quite compact and have the piping going the right way.

Have you ever considered this configuration???

It is by far big enough for my L28et application & I'm looking at 300+ HP at the wheels on a good day at under a bar of boost.

Cheers, D

Good reply.

Other intercoolers you should look at is top mount units off celicas and Gti-r's They flow enough to support a l24et (there is a factory nissan l24et beleive it or not! ) Or a l20et. I was using a top mounted GT4 celica one. Made a massive diffrence over none at all.

Still got it up for grabs also :P

Good reply.

Other intercoolers you should look at is top mount units off celicas and Gti-r's They flow enough to support a l24et (there is a factory nissan l24et beleive it or not! ) Or a l20et. I was using a top mounted GT4 celica one. Made a massive diffrence over none at all.

Still got it up for grabs also :P

so you have a top mount setup for a l24 with piping aswell

so you have a top mount setup for a l24 with piping aswell

I had a top mount cooler running in the front. Been removed awhile ago. No piping anymore as that was used for the new upgraded one. Which has now been sold as a package.

Got the cooler still. Both outlets are on the same side, Core is about 300x300x70mm or so. PRetty good :)

I had a top mount cooler running in the front. Been removed awhile ago. No piping anymore as that was used for the new upgraded one. Which has now been sold as a package.

Got the cooler still. Both outlets are on the same side, Core is about 300x300x70mm or so. PRetty good :dry:

how much you want for it

make me a offer, it has a little bit of scuffed fins, but ok condition. Dunno what the shipping would be on it

its ok ive got one sorted this is what im getting

pict0358kw7.th.jpg

Im not getting it till the Australia day weekend so when i get it what i will do is take some photos of my progress and do a step buy step procedure for installing it and i will also do the same with the L24E turbo conversion

Edited by the big JC
its ok ive got one sorted this is what im getting

pict0358kw7.th.jpg

Im not getting it till the Australia day weekend so when i get it what i will do is take some photos of my progress and do a step buy step procedure for installing it and i will also do the same with the L24E turbo conversion

looks good, the core doesnt look like a good flowing one tho

looks good, the core doesnt look like a good flowing one tho

o well shit happens it will be good enough 2 get me started

all i have left on the list of things is

.oil pump

.vaccum controll thingy

.boost gauge

.boost tee

.bov

.R33 GTS-T turbo and dump

and then it will finally be time to start YAY

o well shit happens it will be good enough 2 get me started

all i have left on the list of things is

.oil pump

.vaccum controll thingy

.boost gauge

.boost tee

.bov

.R33 GTS-T turbo and dump

and then it will finally be time to start YAY

The oil pump is a must, you have to get a turbo L series oil pump.

The L20ET pump will do, but you can get bigger, just depends on how much money you want to spend.

I have a type 1 BOV if it's of any use to you, I bought it for a similar conversion but never used it. I also have a new VDO Boost gauge and a manual boost controller (same as advertised on these forums) a bleed off type ball valve controller.

PM me if your interested.

Cheers, D

i had a 600x 300x 75mm cooler fitted to the HR for a while till i removed it to use in the r31, mounted with the inlet and outlet pipes below the front bar surports, piping was long as it ran back behind the cooler and both came up through where the air box was....

i will be putting a similar sized core back in but mounted differently so i can reduce the length of piping...

core in the same spot but mounted upside down (inlet & outlet at the top) 90deg bends straight off the inlet & outlets, holes cut in body just below the lights then piping straight to the turbo, maybe a front facing plenium (i have an rb engine) to save an extra 1-2 foot of piping..

a mate has a similar set up in his r31 and theres at least 3-4 foot of piping saved compared to my old set up....

Edited by rsx84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...