Jump to content
SAU Community

Short Shift Kits

Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted

Would not use one of these personally since there's no dampener built into it as there is in the OEM, NISMO & C's ones.

post-2420-1168206418.jpg

The dampener is built into the stick itself under ( part of ) the counterweight and helps to shift cleanly and as you can see, this shifter doesn't have a dampener built in.

I have owned and used a C's one which is about a 25% - 30% shift throw reduction and works great. To get the full benefit's your syncro's should be in top condition.

Also owned a NISMO one which is about a 10% - 15% shift throw reduction and works great but doesn't feel much different from the normal one.

Just my 2 cents.

  • 4 weeks later...
vidospace Mentor

vidospace

Posted
Posted
don't waste your money on them, they rattle and are really crap quality. The place that made mine even had the guts to imprint nismo on the side of the shifter.

Oh great! And they dont fit that easily too. My mechanic tried on Sunday and said that the shifter is the wrong size and all. The seller claims that it will fit and their solution was to sent me previous buyers email addresses and ask them how to do it! Not happy Jan!

:laugh:

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

got one for my car from ebay, paid $57+ postage total, didnt have any instructions with it, but once i sorted it all out and eventually got it in (was a bit tight) it felt a bit crap untill all the parts wore in which took a week, now it feels BEAUTIFUL, so happy with it, definately some of the best money ive spent on the car... had it for 6months now and no problems... looks exactly like the one in the first pic...

driving anything else feels like a tractor!

mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

I have one of these in my 32gtst, looks exactly the same, they are counter weight balanced, and are a solid feel without the damper, feels better like that than the original. My throw seems to be 50 less.. which is great, wouldnt go back. Easy to fit, but the little white cup on the end of the shifter didnt fit into my slot in the box, so i had to change that from my original, does have a little rattle, but sound deadner under the gear boot has fixeed that. For the price, best way to go, reliable, easy to fit.

aaron_25t Collaborator

aaron_25t

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just took ownership about ofa an R33 GTS-T a couple of weeks ago and the car was fitted with a (very rattly)C's copy shortshifter.

Over the weekend (the first time shifting a little agressively) the whole shifter came off. The plastic insert (that goes into the small ball at the end of the shifter and into the selector) had split. It's back in there for the meantime but I have to shift slowly.

My question is: is this part included in the eBay kit? Having never seen the standard shifter I'm not sure if this was a stock Nissan part?

Can this part be purchased seperately from Nissan?

Cheers for the help,

Aaron.

just blocked the noise getting into the cabin. you cant fix the rattle as it is the lever inside the box.... not the rings underneath as you may be thinking. But works an absolute treat!
Edited by aaron_25t
sapsR33 Explorer

sapsR33

Posted
Posted

hey guys

ive been looking for a while to get a short shifter into my 33, and spent a lot of time contemplating which to buy: C's, Nismo or the cheap copies off ebay, until the other day i was on ebay and some how came across and oridinal Tomei short shift kit but was second hand. it didnt bother me though and it had a buy it now price of $140 so i bought it.

i put it in myself with the DIY instructions off an SAU member.

perfect fit, no noises, tight and reduced the throw by at least 35-40%.

i suggest listen to what most people have to say and buy the right parts for your beloved baby, invest in only the best

thats my two cents

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...