Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not banned though. Group A class was binned worldwide due to spiralling costs and regions went their own way resulting in V8SC and the less successful Super Tourers here so no class to race a GTR.

"spiralling costs" that makes me laugh,seing how im pretty sure its like $150k just for an engine now and the cars cost like a 1mil each. correct me if im wrong. i think for the reason it is still only v8s in 2007 .not cost but its all about marketing the aussie product. which is fine but everytime i walk past a hsv shp or im in target or kmart e.t.c. the only motoracing merchandise they sell is v8 bloody supercars! and they are still running 5 litre donks??/ my old man used to take me to see the sierras ,skylines rx7s back when it was group a and it was a lot more entertaining than watching a v8 ford or a v8 holden boring.....my 2 cents

yeah, i remember watching the tapes of grp a.

so entertaining! loved every minute of it!

i can barely sit through a few minutes of a V8SC round before i get bored and go do something else. like sleep.

the 2 horse race thing is getting really, really old.

carl that's just the result of rule changes and a strong economy. It was initially relatively cheap.

I personally would love to see more makes, so that is why i watch speedweek and plan on getting to more rounds of different race series. Without investment and patronage the others stay small while V8s are still seen by the dumbarse general population as the only game in town.

carl that's just the result of rule changes and a strong economy. It was initially relatively cheap.

I personally would love to see more makes, so that is why i watch speedweek and plan on getting to more rounds of different race series. Without investment and patronage the others stay small while V8s are still seen by the dumbarse general population as the only game in town.

the main reason the dumbasses follow the v's is because they think holden and falcon are australian (cough cough)

funny how they all use american design motor (chev) or canadian design motor (ford)

so much for being an aussie car lol

Could always pull this right off topic and discuss how they both have Ford diffs etc.....

No I'd like to see a return to using basically showroom (not "homologated") components for engine, gearbox and running gear with brakes, ecu and suspension relatively free but must use original mounting points.

im gunna be a bogan and echo some crap :unsure:

Yeah '92 was the last year of the GTRs, not because they were winning (lol) but because it was also the last year of the group As.

Bit of controversy over the win tho in '92. With a shagged car winning. And one thing i love to point out to holden fans... Skaify drove and won bathursts in a nissan lol

If your real keen there were some vids on here a while ago of the 91 and 92 bathursts with the gtrs. you could have a look and see if they are still up. or i could send them to you for a small fee to cover postage n shiz :huh:

.

No I'd like to see a return to using basically showroom (not "homologated") components for engine, gearbox and running gear with brakes, ecu and suspension relatively free but must use original mounting points.

iagree the days of the gtho and monaro and gtr torries were awesome

they even had volvo's racing back then

the old days of drive to the track ... race ... and then drive it home if it was still going

win on sunday sell on monday has no meaning with tthe way the v8's are run these days

Could always pull this right off topic and discuss how they both have Ford diffs etc.....

No I'd like to see a return to using basically showroom (not "homologated") components for engine, gearbox and running gear with brakes, ecu and suspension relatively free but must use original mounting points.

Well the rear ends in the V8's are only very tenuously linked to the Ford 9" diff. There has been (Like every component in the cars) an awful lot of engineering put into them. If you take a look at the detail work of the diffs in the car you can see why Ron Harrop & the like earn their money.

There are plenty of showroom series out there. Unfortunately the history of showroom class racing is a litany of cheating when done at the top level.

There are plenty of showroom series out there. Unfortunately the history of showroom class racing is a litany of cheating when done at the top level.

Simple, every car can be sold after every race in a lottery of people who want the car for the RRP.

Do they have the full race though?

A single race should be the full length of the dvd.

I've got one where they have squeezed 3 on to one disk and basically it sucks. They have chopped out that much its not funny. I've got 3 full 1990-1992 vids BUT they are poorish quality (DivX 320x240 vhs copy), none the less they still look ok on a 68cm tv, computer screen they look horrid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...