Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey got done for

-HICAS lock fitted to rear, to be returned to standard or engineer to address lock bar + rear wheel alignment.

this is going to cost about $1k at nisswreck for me to get the parts as apparently the power steering pump for it has been removed under the hood.

- COILOVERS fitted to be returned to standard or engineer to address.

when speaking with the engineer he just said as long as you cant wind them down past the legal height there ok.

-no EYELEVEL brake light

i thought 32's didn’t come with 1.

can you just put a stick on one to get your car through because im not to keen on modifying my car. It's pretty standard and I intend on keeping it that way. collectors item ;)

I’m thinking of going for an engineers report for the rest as suspension is going to be looking at over $500 and rear wheel steering no doubt close to $2k getting stuff put in n out again.

Anyone got engineers they recommend? I spoke to a Doug Potts or something like that he was saying like $1500 to get suspension n the HICAS engineered. Then all I have to do is get the coilovers changed so they don’t go below legal height (not that I really care because I like to get over speed humps without scratches and im not really going to be hitting the track)

Anyone got the details on what's the lowest R32 GTR's are allowed to be?

Edited by gzilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152568-engineers-report/
Share on other sites

The R32's came with a rear wing that has eyelevel brake light LED's built in.

Remove the rear wing and you need to fit a eyelevel light in the rear window.

Regarding the suspension height.. A mate recently got defected and I believe he said the GTR's had to be no lower than 372mm. Ring regency and check.

You have no choice -

return the hicas to working order.

fit a slimline eyelevel light

Buy/borrow std shock.

No engineers report will be worth the paper its on.

Fix any other obvious defect (like the no cat etc)

Take some KY as you would probably go through a 3rd time if u dont make it resemble a stock car...

Ps - GTR's are 375mm i think i saw in the cops book.

Goodluck buddy! Ive heard soo much crap about people telling me coilovers were legal through regency!...I didnt think they were unless they were welded to stock heght or above! Mines going through today for the 3rd time!

Make sure everything is smick! But i guess the main thing is..You got your list..So just fix everything on it...as they dont tend to check on other stuff other than the list the second time! (generally speaking)

Keep us informed

BB

also- jump to super cheap..they have rear eye level brake lights that connect to your cig lighter for 12$...save u a bit of cash :)

Edited by boostd_r32_gurl

for the record, all (i think) nissan turbo cars come with a bov - just the plumb back type. It'd be simple enough to fit a stock one when getting it checked and replace it afterwards.

If they ask does it have a bov you can say yes but its plumb back and factory standard. Nothing illegal about the factory bov. :glare:

Good luck with it all. :laugh:

James whats the deal with your car? is it being rebuilt as we speak?

I haven't seen you around in victor for months.

I've stopped going to the pub since since i'm no longer with kara. I don't really want to go down there anymore.

Gimmie a ring or something i've still got your number, we need to catch up.

James whats the deal with your car? is it being rebuilt as we speak?

I haven't seen you around in victor for months.

I've stopped going to the pub since since i'm no longer with kara. I don't really want to go down there anymore.

Gimmie a ring or something i've still got your number, we need to catch up.

sorry mate, think you got the wrong guy. My names not James :)

not that it matters but ill add my 2 cents, my wing is standard and there's no brake light in it. As far as i know there are no GTR's have brake lights in the wing but some GTS 32's have brake lights in there. Either way it’s easy enough to chuck one in the window and take it back out again.

they were looking around the rear steering rack when they noticed the hicas wasn’t working, so they might not know about the power steering lines. Havnt had a look myself yet how its been modified, I wouldn’t really have a clue what im looking at anyway.

I think they should be right with the engineer's report since they wrote it on the sheet (i hear sometimes they don’t give you the engineer option and force you to make it stock again). Just trying to figure out which way would be the better was in terms of $$

i figure if i got defected again and had the engineer's report they would just pick on over stuff more to give me the yellow sticker, but the cars pretty standard so there's not too much they can winge about.

I don’t suppose anyone has a hicas to lend? or legit suspension? i can let you hold onto some cash or something so you can trust you'll get it straight back in the same condition i got it.

Im finding it hard to get someone to lend me GTR parts, i guess this stuff expensive, hard to find and im a newby could be contributing factors here. :)

cheers to all that took the time to respond, much respect

Edited by gzilla
  • 1 month later...

If you do get an engineers report , the engineer is taking responsibility for what ever he is writing the report for. Regency should not be able to defect you for anything that the report is covering. If they try , you should tell them to take it up with the engineer. This is the reason you get an engineers report for in the first place. The engineer is putting his reputation on the line and therefor , if he is anygood should argue like hell for you. This is why they cost so much.(accepting liability).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...