Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wana see what yaz think is the perfect amount of balls for the street... Ill base

this on something like an R33 GTS-T. I will say something along the lines of about 240rwkw's,

second gear should brake traction for fun without clutching & scary gears like 3rd would hold

the road on most surfaces..

Give us some opinions or mabey even stories.. im bored.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152649-opinions-perfect-power-for-street/
Share on other sites

well.. in turbo cars if you have 240kw at the wheels, it is also a knob away with the boost controller to lower it down to say 190kw with a lower boost level. so yea thats pretty much perfect.

you dont want to be driving around on 16psi everyday to work @ 240kw, it starts to rain then before you know it your fishtailing 3rd gear with only half throttle on cheap ass Wanli's or NAnkangs.........

so id say for street driving 240-260kw @ wheels max for street DAILY DRIVEN, as long as you have a streetable clutch and diff and GOOD tires/brakes.

Why would you want to break traction on the street? Evidently one person's fun is another person's cock-knockery.

I'd want enough power to run a relatively hard touring tyre without having to worry about undue wheelspin. Something like a Dunlop 3000A or a Goodyear RS-02.

And I'd want to ensure that I wasn't running so much boost that I'd be unable or unwilling to drive my car every day in Australian conditions, regardless of the weather.

Even just the standard bolt ons (turbo back exhaust, FMIC, ECU + EBC) would be more than adequate for the street.

Why would you want to break traction on the street? Evidently one person's fun is another person's cock-knockery.

I'd want enough power to run a relatively hard touring tyre without having to worry about undue wheelspin. Something like a Dunlop 3000A or a Goodyear RS-02.

And I'd want to ensure that I wasn't running so much boost that I'd be unable or unwilling to drive my car every day in Australian conditions, regardless of the weather.

Even just the standard bolt ons (turbo back exhaust, FMIC, ECU + EBC) would be more than adequate for the street.

I got to agree with you

I would rather a car that grips well instead of a car that spins the wheels and dosent go anywere, also a well set up car handling wise is alot more fun than a car that has lots of power but dosent handle well and cant put the power to the ground around corners,a car that you can take round the twisty's and give a nice fast run is the setup for me.

no no no your fully wrong, go fullsik 400 rwkws minimum, that should get you everywere while the fuel is in the tank, no wheelspin what so ever, put some 285's on the rear and you'll be right :)

LoL, anything under 300 is the best bet for street, any more and its just rudiculous, 250 is comfortable, but as mentioned, with the right handling supports to accomodate power is your best bet for street

also a well set up car handling wise is alot more fun than a car that has lots of power but dosent handle well and cant put the power to the ground around corners,a car that you can take round the twisty's and give a nice fast run is the setup for me.

Yeah, for the street you don't need max power. You're either driving a commuter, where you only just need enough power to make gaps in traffic when overtaking, or you want a little fun "touge machine".

For the former I think the bolt-ons on a GTS-t would be perfect. For the latter, I'd probably prefer something like a RenaultSport Clio, DC5 Type-R or MX5. They've got a reasonable power to weight, flexible engines, and with not much weight but lots of grip they're fun to throw around your favourite winding road without having to do ludicrous speed.

Honestly, an SR20 Pulsar is about as much grunt as you need on the street for great fun. The fun is in the noiuse and reving the thing without going at crazy speeds. Hell my 800cc Handivan is still the most fun street car i have ever had...it sounded cool and use to rev it hard everywhere...and was always going at speeds which didnt make me fear for my licence.

In an R32 with a bit more then std poke i cant even floor it above 4k wihtout owrrying baout speeding...no fun at all

Honestly, an SR20 Pulsar is about as much grunt as you need on the street for great fun. The fun is in the noiuse and reving the thing without going at crazy speeds. Hell my 800cc Handivan is still the most fun street car i have ever had...it sounded cool and use to rev it hard everywhere...and was always going at speeds which didnt make me fear for my licence.

In an R32 with a bit more then std poke i cant even floor it above 4k wihtout owrrying baout speeding...no fun at all

Yeah my friend was saying the same thing. In his sisters pulser he could thrash the car as much as he wanted and wasn't really doing dangerous speeds but in my gtr if you at the limiter in 3rd your at about 170km/h(i think) which is a bit scary on the streets.

you dont want to be driving around on 16psi everyday to work @ 240kw

Whats wrong with that :(

I had very badly worn Wanli's when I bought my car. Turning in the rain was always a joy. Power output was 193hp at the rears back then.

Launch out of first......hit speed imit...................hit red line, change to 5th and brake.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...