Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by DREMEN

Anyone here done this on their R33 GTS-25T???

i'm sure there are some out there.

Originally posted by DREMEN

Who did you get to do the work???

Depends on where you are, local/interstate workshop?

Originally posted by DREMEN

How much did it cost?

Largely depends on *see above response*, and also how much work you are doing.

Originally posted by DREMEN

What sort of gains did you make?

As mentioned, depends on how 'tuff' you want the original one to be rebuilt to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-311978
Share on other sites

I've got my standard r33 turbo highflowed - did it a couple of months ago. I got it done with a lot of other work so i'm not sure how much it came to. Precision did mine (through Envy Imports located on the Northern Beaches).

My car hits fuel/boost cut if I increase the boost a little bit past stock, so I bought myself a new powerFC which will be tuned next wednesday.

I think B-Man has a high flowed turbo, but was more expensive and probably better than mine.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-313500
Share on other sites

I had my turbo high flowed at ATS in adelaide... Cost me about 2k from memory (2 years ago)...

They're good if you're just chasing an extra 20rwkw, but if you want to make a decent amount of power, just put the extra $$$ to a new turbo. The housings (comp and exhaust) are too small to make big power.

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-313866
Share on other sites

Hi DREMEN, we have a R34 GTT with a GCG hi flowed turbo on it, makes 260 rwkw. Cost a bit under $2K.

Hi skyr31, our hi flows from GCG have all had;

The compressor wheel replaced with a larger one

The compressor cover machined to suite the larger compressor

The turbine replaced with a larger one

(stainless steel replacing the standard ceramic)

The turbine cover machined to suite the larger turbine

A larger diameter shaft

Larger diameter ball bearings

All the rotating stuff micro balanced

New seals fitted.

So basically everything that wears is replaced, so it is almost like a new turbo. Much stronger with the larger shaft, not ceramic turbine and larger balls. Higher flowing due to larger turbine and compressor. Best of all everything bolts back up to the turbo as per standard.

There is also an upgrade path, if you want more power then they can replace the compressor cover with a larger one and/or the turbine cover. Much cheaper than buying another turbo, particulalry when you include the cost of fabricating parts to fit non standard turbos.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-316466
Share on other sites

Hi TT said, "GCG stage 1 hi flow turbo requires 22psi to make 450hp at the engine, as stated in a previous related thread."

And I said that's not quite correct in the "previous related thread".

We have one on an RB25DET that makes 260 rwkw at 19 psi. We also have one on an RB30DET that makes over 300 rwkw at 20 psi. On a properly set up engine it does not need 22 psi to make 450 bhp. On a badly set up engine it might.

The engine has way more to do with it than the turbo.

Hope that helps clarify

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-318024
Share on other sites

Hi macka, when you post "The quality of the turbo is not affected" your not saying that a "sleeve bearing core" is as good as a ball bearing core are you?

Sorry, but you get what you pay for. Plus the prices that appear on websites are "Recommended Retail Prices". Ring up you might be pleasantly surpised, I quite often am.

Hope that helps some more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15293-high-flow-turbo/#findComment-318027
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...