Jump to content
SAU Community

best amp


hippy
 Share

Recommended Posts

what are u wanting it to do.... just drive your car speakers, just drive a sub or a combination of both, do u want 1,2,3,4 or five channels??? I'm going for a alpine v12 700w digital amp - don't know the model no. it's two channels but that's all i need to run the 12" alpine sub that going with it - sorry i couldn't be more help

by the way... the amp retails for $399 from autobarn not to bad for a alpine amp, + u should be able to haggle a bit more of that as well, add a $200+ sub to it and u'll be kicking it up :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what jaycay 5 channel amp??? neways check out the group purchase of the response 4x100wrms amps in this forum. They are the shit and we are getting them for just over 3 hundred bucks with a 1 year warranty but you must be quick. they normally retail for $449 if you buy 1. they can go:

4x100wrms, 2x100wrms + 1x300wrms, or 2x300wrms

they are wicked and i think best value for money. my mate ran 2 cervin vager 400wrms subs in a ported custom box of this one amp and when he pulled into my driveway the pictures on the walls moved... so think about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had a bridged sub from a friend who lent it to me to see wether i wanted a sub in my systme, but for some reason it sounded horrible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have to be bridgeable amp - not all of them are compatible to be bridged properly. Not sure the exactly electronics behind it but that is why many are labelled as "bridgeable" and some aren't.

My 2x75rms into 1x150rms sounds fine for my sub..

If u just want to run a sub.. and not lose 2x channels in your other amp... you're probably best just getting a powerful monoblock.. You can push a lot more through the one channel at a cheaper price than bridging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A "mono block" or just "mono amp" is pretty much what it says.. just runs the one channel.. which is dedicated for one purpose: running a sub (or two or three, etc) .

Looking at I guess $200 - $800 for one depending on the brand.

It can maybe end up a bit cheaper as you can probably get away with a smaller amp for your other speakers... as subs need comparitively greater power to achieve decent volume.

e.g. a 300 Watt (RMS) sub probably won't kill you at full volume.. 300 Watt "standard" speakers at full volume is ****ING loud :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what you are saying is that its best to run to amps if intending to run a sub, yes/no. if yes is the case, may this be a problem if i only have 2 re outputs on my h/u or does it not have to reply on it. having said that, can i run a second amp say 2 channels to my 4 channel amp in which there are 2 channels free on the 4 channel then just use the additional amp to run the subs. confusing? impossible?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

i just went to Jaycar and they are selling their monoblock 130w rms mono subamp for $140, reduced from $169, but the actual amp must be mount into a cavity on the sub-box,not a direct bolt on. This is good if you are custom building a sub box and want to intergrate an amp into the cabinet. The sub amp has crossover adj., as well as some other features, but i havent heard it yet, or read any reviews..... looks ok though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...