Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would standard pistons and rods be good for 300rwkw?? i am looking to run a rb30 with stardard bottom end

rb25de head gasket

r32 rb25de head with rb26 valve springs, gtr cams and standard manifold.

what sort of turbo would be best for 260-300rwkw, i am thinking a holset hx35 or a garrett 3040.

does that sound like a good idea. i would like any feed back people have

thanks

it's been mentioned in this thread that the GTRvalve springs can't easily be adapted for the rb25de head.

it would be easier to use the 25det valve springs.

it also been said that with GOOD tuning and supporting mods, keeping boost low, with correct sized turbo, 300rwkw can be achieved using stock na pistons and rods and stock gaskets.

but constant high revs will destroy the stock rods.

not sure about GTR cams in teh 25de head either.

standard manifold is ok.

turbo selection..... I don't know.. not up to scratch with my turbo knowledge in terms of what power the turbo's you've said will produce and at what boost levels.

I think you'd need to be a bit more specific with things like exhaust wheel size and so forth.

Is there a workshop in melbourne that has done the rb31det conversion before that you guys would recommend?

Was going to do most of the work my self but after reading about all the crap people go through with pistons and what not i think i would rather have a warranty.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

The Haltech has boost correction dependant on the gear selected, so i plan to use this to soften the power delivery in 1st gear once boost is wound up.

it seems the "search this thread" option is no longer available.

however, SYDNEYKID had stated that GTR valve springs are not a direct replacement for RB25de heads.

it was due to the lifter in 25 heads not being the same setup as the 26 head.

he mentioned that in his first RB30 build when he used the 25de head from an R32, he changed the valve springs and used 25det valve springs.

maybe he'll see this post and confirm or correct me.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

I have a sensor on 1 front wheel which picks up 5 pulses/revolution. You then calculate how many pulses will occur in 1km and enter this value into the sofware. You work out what each gear ratio equates to in kmh/1000rpm and enter the results plus the required boost correction for each gear and plug this into the software.

The ecu now has a speed reference via the wheel sensor in km, and by using the kmh/1000rpm figures plus the engine rpm it can determine which gear you're in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...