Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

excelent just what I was hoping for

now I can use my s1 block just as it is

because it is just like brand new (96k one owner) :P

and stockymcstock what is your esimated power with this turbo

I was thinking of using a GT40 with a .96 exhaust

I have read on CalaisTurbo that many ppl are using the XR6 GT35s with success

Edited by DYNOBUSTER

well the 1.34 rear has similar flow specs to a .96 rear GT42 - which will support up to about 900hp. the ONLY reason i chose this turbo (apart from the fact that the new series GT wheels flog the shit out of T04's etc) is that the rear housing is roughly twice the size i would normally have chosen if i was matching a turbo on its own to this engine.

if i had to choose a turbo to suit the engine, it would be a GT35/40 1.06 rear (maybe .86 rear) without a doubt. as it was, i needed a turbo which would supply 500hp worth of air at about 8-9psi without being outside the surge line on the compressor map. this means i needed a big A/R on the compressor, but a smallish wheel. the rear, of course, had to be bloody massive otherwise it'd hit too hard and choke the top end. in the end the turbo came from rotormaster in VIC, apparently a few of the 13B rotaries like to use these as drag turbos.

apart from the 7psi as soon as my foot hits the floor, i'm hoping for full pressure from the turbo at about 3000rpm. cams might hold it back a little but i'm sure it'll be fine to potter around in, pick groceries up in etc :P

EDIT: cubes whack those photos into the DET guide if you want - but make sure you tell people that using a series one block will cost you a LOT in drill bits, taps and fittings! MUCH more than just buying a series 2 block would have. if i could start again, i would never ever had used a S1 block, too much rooting around.

Edited by StockyMcStock

Oil pump question guys.

What is involved in fitting an R33 oil pump? My understanding is that you need an adapter?

The Jun adapter has been mentioned and quoted at crazily high numbers like $600.

Is there any way around this?

Edited by MarkE
My understanding is that you need an adapter?

The Jun adapter has been mentioned and quoted at crazily high numbers like $600.

Is there any way around this?

Im using an R34 GTR oil pump with the JUN adaptor.

AS far as I know Greenline sell the adaptor for approx $200.

Other costs like machining/labour would add to the price but I dont see how it could cost alot more. I asked the question you are asking a few pages ago and found the answers myself.

I'm doing the machining/labour myself.

pheww.... finally finished reading all 140-something pages.

Im considering this convertion and there's a few questions that Im not clear about.

Im going to use R33 Series II head and parts, do the series II oil pump bolt on to the RB30 block or does it need the adapter?

Im going to use R33 4-speed Auto, will it bolt unto the RB30 with no problems?

If I wanted to be absolute cheap ass and just bolt the head unto the block with minimal work, what is the absolute least thing I should replace? Head gasket?

I'll probably go the forged pistons route probably Wiesco/Arias can anyone recommend me a shop that can supply these at a decent price?

guys ive run into a problem

which arias pistons did you guys use when using the R32 RB25DE head?

AP331231 - ARIAS FORGED PISTONS NISSAN / HOLDEN RB30DET TURBO 86.5MM BORE SUPPLIED WITH RINGS

AP331232 - ARIAS FORGED PISTONS NISSAN / HOLDEN RB30DET TURBO 87MM BORE SUPPLIED WITH RINGS

AP332104 - ARIAS FORGED PISTONS NISSAN RB30 CONVERSION WITH RB25DET HEAD 86.5MM BORE SUPPLIED WITH RINGS

AP340754 - ARIAS FORGED PISTONS RB30 NON-TURBO 86.5MM BORE SUPPLIED WITH RINGS

I've dropped the stock vg30det bb ceramic turbo on the rb30det.

Suprisingly mid range is much stronger, torque doesn't hit hard then accelerate at the same pace as the rb20det turbo did.

When the VG30DET turbo was on the rb20det mid range was really gutless, much less than the stock rb20det turbo, its interestering how its now the opposite.

Now it hits hard then comes on stronger and stronger.

The RB30DET has finally lots its diesel 3.0TDI feel. :)

It has made the exhaust deeper and slightly drony around 70-80km/h.

Overall I really like the way power comes on, the vg30det turbo is definitely a nice match to the 3ltr.

Power comes on hard around 2500rpm vs the rb20det turbo's 2000rpm. But its not like there is nothing under 2500rpm its still making really good power just much more linear.

It feels like it wants to rev now, I'll throw it on the dyno and get it tuned up within the next few weeks and see where peak power shifts too.

Another interestering observation is the turbo is so so quiet.

Possibly due to the compressor cover not containing the surge ring as the rb20det/rb25det turbos do?

The rb20det turbo used to make loud sucking psshhhhhh noises when on boost, this one only has a slight whistle. Similiar to how a vlt sounds.

I now feel like a much lesser hoon when overtaking or zipping out from the ending left lane. :P

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...