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I forget now which was which, one of them didn't require welding as its a plate sort of engine mount, there's enough room on that one to simply redrill the holes. I used a little bit of copper behind the old holes and filled them in, ground them flat and paint. :)

The other mount, the flat plate part that bolts to the engine needs to be removed, then simply slid down a little chopped and rewelded.

Both Bl4ck32's and mine where 100% done the same.

I didn't take any pics as the motor was hanging there waiting for the engine mounts, I was too keen to bolt her in. :D

Edited by Cubes
I forget now which was which, one of them didn't require welding as its a plate sort of engine mount, there's enough room on that one to simply redrill the holes. I used a little bit of copper behind the old holes and filled them in, ground them flat and paint. :(

The other mount, the flat plate part that bolts to the engine needs to be removed, then simply slid down a little chopped and rewelded.

Both Bl4ck32's and mine where 100% done the same.

I didn't take any pics as the motor was hanging there waiting for the engine mounts, I was too keen to bolt her in. :P

I can see now, the one on the driver's side has enough meat to redrill the holes but on the passenger side it doesn't!

Sky30,

How many more kays have you racked up since you dropped the motor in with its 270,000km's? :(

26GTS,

Have another read of the guide, on page 6 there is a few notes on engine mounts.

It states....

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.

This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high Rb25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The Rb26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn't have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock rb25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the drivers side and 12mm on the passengers side.

You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwies the fan will much it up.

Cubes,

do you know if it's the same deal for series 1 R33 gts-t

using RB25DET head and RB30 block

,is there any difference between turbo and non-turbo RB30 blocks

Regards

conan

r33's can run their own inlet system, due to them being the same port size as the rb25de head. They still need to be lowered, but you can make a lowering plate instead of redrilling the mounts.

Most of these q's can be answered by simply looking at your motor, and the new one going in....

Difference between non-turbo and turbo blocks have been answered b4. They are they same block in the series 2 motor.

r33's can run their own inlet system, due to them being the same port size as the rb25de head. They still need to be lowered, but you can make a lowering plate instead of redrilling the mounts.

Most of these q's can be answered by simply looking at your motor, and the new one going in....

Difference between non-turbo and turbo blocks have been answered b4. They are they same block in the series 2 motor.

bl4ck32,

Am I still up for a new top half plenum , one that's not as high ,or can strut brace be modified?

Might be pushing the budget a bit now.

Regards.

the rb25de top half of the plenum is different to the rb20det one. The AAC valve is different, but the ports are the same between the two.

I used my rb20det top half as it bolts up, and retains the std AAC valve.

Simply use your std inlet (r33?), and modify the strut brace. I am doing the exact same thing this week to make my strut brace clear the throttle body. Simply making new ends where it bolts to the strut tower to offset the bar....

Edited by Bl4cK32

ok, height issue sorted , thx.

If I don't need a plenum then I'd like to consider cams.

This is it so far..

Engine is going together today for the first time.

R33 gts-t series 1 head onto RB30DE block.

Car already has,

Haltech ignition & E6K ECU, 500 hp fuel pump& regulator,surge tank

Series 2 gearbox, full size front mount intercooler , cold air box& unifilter

1200 kg clutch ,machined flywheel

Blitz Dual SBC boost controller

Hitachi T03-T04 turbo + 500 hp ball bearing core

HKS 3" exhaust + 4 1/2 " tip

Previous best was 247 rwkw on 12psi but had more and went better at 18 !

Now going for forged CP pistons 8.3.1 cr ,and

REV rods together balanced within .25 g

Chrone forged rings

New bearings, main studs

N1 oil pump and N1 water pump

Block fully dipped and prepped from scratch

Head work

Keeping stock springs and lifters but considering Tomei 256deg Poncams.

How much of a difference do you think the cams will make to this, considering another $1200 - $1400 for them.

Or are there better ones for max improvement before street driveability goes down.

Several opinions would be appreciated !

Regards

Edited by conan7772
But Where the mount bolts to the block it has 4 bolts either side connecting the bracket to the block!

Is it just one hole that needs redrilling on each mount, i'm thinking its where the bracket goes to the mount? Do you know if when shaun did it he welded the holes up then redrilled them?

I welded up all 4 holes in the mounts, ground them back and re-drilled new holes. On one of the mounts there is no room for the lower hole so you need to cut this part, flatten it, then drill the hole. I also added some Gusseting for strength around this part.

Edited by sky30
How much of a difference do you think the cams will make to this, considering another $1200 - $1400 for them.

Or are there better ones for max improvement before street driveability goes down.

Several opinions would be appreciated !

i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

You think so, I believe it's a high flow T03 , can produce 32 psi but loses spark at 22.

I would've thought it could work better with the new engine.

Want to achieve around 320rwkw.

Also safer to run in the new engine with the smaller turbo.

Will want to upgrade later though $$$

Edited by conan7772
i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

You got a contact number,

and thanks..

The R32 RB20DET Transmission supports are suitable for the RB30  -> RB20DET/RB25DET gearbox.

Hows your little monster coming along Ben? :P

Bu5ter is running 272duration cams in his RB30DET, the same as you I believe?

I got rid of my RB26DETT box setup.. (crossmember was not going to be tidy like I wanted) and I have a RB25DET box in the car now.

It's all running. I havn't plumbed my AFM up correctly yet (running 1 AFM in a double sized pipe with 2 outputs to the ECU).

With an AFM just sitting by the turbo, no tuning and no cold idle or idle adjustment parts... it sits there idleing at 800RPM :P

Sounds awesome!

I don't recall my cam specs :(

They are a minor upgrade over stock, like a stage 1.

I have all the data on them beside me.. but I don't understand it at all.

Two pages about the lift, durations etc..

Edited by GTR-Ben
ivan tighe engineering - it's in the phone book.

the turbo may be capable of producing xx amount of boost, but it simply runs out of airflow. if you want 320rwkw i'd go a GT35/40 1.06 rear or better still, a GT40 1.00 rear or so.

thanks for your advice mate, I'm gonna take it.

GT40 & cams to come later after run in.

Do you know if the GT40 can stay as a low mount ?

Don't particularly want the expense of a full kit!

Still unsure which cams though.

Regards.

Edited by conan7772

you certainly could low mount it, but it'd need a custom manifold. i have a GT40 1.34 rear and this is how big it is:

DSC00179.jpg

DSCF0137.jpg

as you can see there's not a lot of chance of putting that anywhere near a standard manifold. it would be reasonably easy to do a low-mount tubular manifold and keep it so that the returning cooler pipe still made it over the top however.

the GT40 will make the power more easily (less boost) but your bottom-end power might suffer a bit. having said that, with good cams and good tuning there's no reason an RB30DET can't have brilliant off-boost response. it would build boost pretty quickly no matter what turbo is on it IMHO (within reason - GT60 GTFO)

the 35/40 1.06 rear would be a brilliant match, you'd have to push it pretty hard to get 320rwkw though.

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