conan7772 Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 GT42/HKS T51r fits fine <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Can you get a front strut brace across that ? I guess everyone with the RB30 is losing it. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1938137 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 why is everyone strung up on the damn strut brace. Make new ends to offset the bar across the engine to clear the tb. If your building the engine, you have to cut and weld the engine mounts, so whats hard about making new strut ends at the same time?? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1938353 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 possible issue with making the strut brace higher is that i know my strut brace had rubbing marks on it from the std bonnet.. so i know i wouldn't be able to make the strut brace higher .. saying that i am hoping i wont have an issue with the plazmaman front facing plenum. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939128 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 you dont make it sit higher, you move it forward not up Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939176 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 you dont make it sit higher, you move it forward not up <{POST_SNAPBACK}> oh .. right :lol: yeah makes sense now hahaha Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939212 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADR33 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 yeah my rb30s now fitted. i didnt need to mod the engine mounts. just a slight hammer on one of the under bonnet supports. looks damn sexy. should have it running on thursday now only if it would stop raining so i could go outside and finishd changeing the fuel pump Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939330 Share on other sites More sharing options...
conan7772 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) why is everyone strung up on the damn strut brace.Make new ends to offset the bar across the engine to clear the tb. If your building the engine, you have to cut and weld the engine mounts, so whats hard about making new strut ends at the same time?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeh but how rigid is it going to be ? I haven't seen any pics either. See pic below, can't move it forward with the RB25DET head, have to go right back against the firewall. Useless... Edited February 11, 2006 by conan7772 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939878 Share on other sites More sharing options...
conan7772 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) stage 1 Edited February 21, 2006 by conan7772 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939888 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 yeh but how rigid is it going to be ?I haven't seen any pics either. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Same as the bar was before, or make it better. I havent posted pics, but whats so hard to picture about it?? Your simply offsetting a bar forward, not making great structural changes Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1939896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 This is what came out of the rb20det gearbox + lots and lots of large chunks of teeth, be buggered fishing them out of that stinky oil. Drain Plug The back of the tooth where it broke The mesh side of the tooth, looks as if the engaging gear was really digging in and not meshing with the whole tooth. :S The new box is very very quiet.. Feels quite strange, like a new car. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940245 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRgeoff Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Thats a fatigue failure as you can see from the close curved lines across the broken face and the rough area to the other side of the break. Starts somewhere about where I've marked as best as I can discern from the photos. Just couldn't handle no more Cap'n Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940274 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better. Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time? A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly. So definitely rb30 related? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940303 Share on other sites More sharing options...
conan7772 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Same as the bar was before, or make it better. I havent posted pics, but whats so hard to picture about it?? Your simply offsetting a bar forward, not making great structural changes <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Can't go forward. There's nothing between the induction pipe and the bonnet. Running a bar behind the BOV is too bigger an offset. It will flex under load i.e USELESS. What head do you have ? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940920 Share on other sites More sharing options...
conan7772 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 This is what came out of the rb20det gearbox + lots and lots of large chunks of teeth, be buggered fishing them out of that stinky oil. Drain Plug The back of the tooth where it broke The mesh side of the tooth, looks as if the engaging gear was really digging in and not meshing with the whole tooth. :S The new box is very very quiet.. Feels quite strange, like a new car. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Gees you got that in quick ! What did you pay for it ? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940923 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 The new 20t box with warranty (lol) was $500. A pitty I wasn't prepared for the big bang. I'll track down a well priced rb25t box get a tail shaft sorted and drop that in, eventually. Hopefully before this 20t box blows. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940945 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BU5TER Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 Can you get a front strut brace across that ?I guess everyone with the RB30 is losing it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep strut brace fits fine except it hits the hks heat sheild Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1940964 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) Can't go forward.There's nothing between the induction pipe and the bonnet. Running a bar behind the BOV is too bigger an offset. It will flex under load i.e USELESS. What head do you have ? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> ive got the 25de head, and you can move it forward. edit/ im not going to argue about it, but in a 32 it will fit Edited February 10, 2006 by Bl4cK32 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1941031 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted February 10, 2006 Share Posted February 10, 2006 I've only seen one unknown strut brace that positions the bar in front of the throttle body/cross over pipe. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1941048 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldo Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 hey guys...my rb20 just blew up..and im considering doing this conversion as i have heard its a great upgrade....just one question though...i have a rb20det power fc...but if i do this conversion i want to run the rb26 head...will my power fc work with this head (i dont mind if i have to rewire a few things) i already have modded the wiring loom for stock gtr injectors. any help would be good cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1945681 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 It will work fine providing you stick with a single afm. The only sensor that 'may' not be used is the intake air temp sensor, I am not 100% sure what pin or if it indeed can be used with the rb20det pfc. SK has said it has or can be done? Not completely sure. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/145/#findComment-1945852 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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