Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how is it only 1 in 10 are suitable? arent the blocks all made the same? or individually cast.....lol but seriously hows that possible?

The RB30 block doesn't have the boss cast into it to take the squirter or the locating lug. It's a lot thinner through to the oil gallery also, with core shift in the castings it can end up too thin to tap a decent thread into by the time you have machined a flat for the squirter to sit against. It needs to be a very accurate job to locate the squirter in the correct position. I did a 3S toyota not long ago to take 3SGTE squirters and it was a 3 hour job by the time it was finished. I'd say around 4 hours on a RB30, thats $400, it makes coatings pretty well priced.

hi guys - haven't checked in on this thread for a while now but good to see some progress from the new 30DET guys.

my engine is physically in now, i have fabricated the dump pipe and am in the process of making up the cooler piping now. i'll take some photos of the state it's currently in for future reference. as cubes mentioned i'm twincharging this engine, however i will be running it in with the turbo only until i get the blower mounted and driven - which is surprisingly difficult i assure you.

Parts list:

3ltr block

ACL casties, standard bore size, ACL race series rings.

rods - standard. Crack tested, cryo treated, beam polished then shot peened.

bearings: Nissan mains, clevite 77 rods.

R32 GTR oil pump.

(EDIT: for the love of god, don't start this conversion with a series 1 block!)

R33 RB25DE head

lightly ported exhaust side

fully rebuilt, new valve guides, reseated valves etc

stock cams

stock cam springs <--- probably not for long, we'll see.....

RB25DET 380cc injectors for now.

Custom JD plenum

XF throttle body (3 inch)

Hot side:

Stocky Racing Industries tubular, split pulse exhaust manifold

50mm HKS racegate off turbine housing.

Full house GT40 turbo. 1.34 exhaust A/R, split pulse. 0.72 A/R compressor. 4 inch inlet.

Stocky Racing Industries 3.5 inch dump pipe.

Stocky Racing Industries 3 inch cat-back mandrel bent exhaust.

Stocky Racing Industries 3 inch stainless cooler piping.

Eaton M90 supercharger, custom shortened drive snout for clearance. 1.8x crank speed drive.

Garrett 32mm wastegate setup as a bypass valve for the blower.

Hybrid front mount.

PowerFC.

Q45 AFM in the piping.

As you can guess i've done 90% of the work on this engine myself, to the point of building the bottom end and making my own exhaust manifold. overall, a great learning experience i must say!

I have oil pressure, spark and fuel now so my wiring job has worked, just waiting on my mate's TIG to finish the piping and a few little things, then she'll be ready to go. will update with pics soon.

Edited by StockyMcStock

When i read stocks list and saw the turbo and supercharger there i had a funny feeling in my pants. With that said isnt tunning a supercharged and turbo'd engine supposed to be a right prick? Would love to see some photos of the engine and supercharger install.

Edited by DORIFUTO_The Future
When i read stocks list and saw the turbo and supercharger there i had a funny feeling in my pants. With that said isnt tunning a supercharged and turbo'd engine supposed to be a right prick? Would love to see some photos of the engine and supercharger install.

shouldnt be any different to tune, its just like having an automatic dual stage boost controller, such as the factory rb25det job... runs a cirtain boost level to a specd rev, then turbo boost kicks in to cover the rest of the range... unless you are using a afm, then its slightly different... :angry: i think

it's not really any different to tune, just pull some timing out below 3000rpm, add more fuel everywhere and away you go. being able to run a giant exhaust housing is a nice positive to this setup.

as a reference, the exhaust housing i have is recommended for a 13B rotary drag engine producing 700-800hp at the wheels. i've never seen one this big on an RB30. it was very very very carefully selected after much debate and turbine flow chart analysis. i hope that it is small enough, the next step up was a GT42 but the smallest compressor i could get on that would be surging due to only having to supply 7psi pressure @ 500hp worth of flow. as it is, my compressor stage will be skating on thin ice to do this.

i haven't mounted or driven the blower yet, it is still in the machine shop getting modified. i'll take some photos next weekend if i can, with just the turbo in there.

as you can guess, packaging is a big issue.....

Hi Guys,

I've got a mate who had an RB30DET in his VL Calais using an RB25DET head (Stock), he told me he used a stock crank(balanced and blueprinted), stock RB30 rods(shotpeened), forged JP pistons with BMW gudgeon pins, an extra cam chain tensioner for the timing chain, a Wolf 3d computer and T04e turbo.Which was good for 300+ conservative horsepower at the wheels. When I asked him about oil pressure and reliability he told me he used a stock RB30 oil pump with reliable oil pressure the whole time he owned it (3 yrs). To back that up he used a Twin plate clutch and VL Turbo greabox (not sure if the box would fit in a skyline though). ;)

Anyone ever seen or know of a successful low mount of a GT30/40 or GT35/40 in an R33 ?

These two turbos apparently use the same size housings.

I'm trying to avoid changing my plenum and all my piping.

The stock turbo is already quite close to the strut tower.

I've seen various low mount manifolds available which appear to push the turbo further down, but might only suit R32 & R34.

Can anyone confirm... :)

Mmmm im leaning towards the dark side :) eg 30det

I can get a R32 25de head and rb30e block quite easy and then use my pfc,gtr injectors,nismo fpr,z32 afm? or will it max out,25det gb.Then parts i would get is bigger turbo,stronger valve springs and thats it? how does that sound.

Would be interesting to see how the hks gt2535 goes on it thou :O

im usinga 25det gb with bearing noise and its held up for roughly 15,000 kms no probs.

The 2535 on it would suck balls, like mine. Full boost @ 1500rpm :) makes 218rwrkw on last tune, but should go higher.

the rest of the parts is ok.

if i did it over, id go 26det head.

Ok cool.The thing is i have the money to spend on it but would rather not lol,house is more important! So thats why id like to use the r32 de head so i can use all most my parts bar some,eg turbo.

I'm still thinking what i should do atm.

The 2535 on it would suck balls, like mine. Full boost @ 1500rpm ;) makes 218rwrkw on last tune, but should go higher.

Shouldn't the 2535 be performing better than that on a RB30? I mean it makes 250rwKw on a RB25. What RPM does the power peak at?

Im only going by an old dyno sheet, so from memory my rb20 is a highflow, sort of like a t3/t4 hybrid thing. Similar, maybe a little smaller than the 2535 in sizing. The cc's move the power band of mine back to 1500 rpm, and still pulls past 6k. If it had cams/manifold, it would make more and rev a bit better, but the turbos too damn small. Minimal for the motor id say is a GT30 or similar.

That, or drop your diff ratio as 1st gear is useless :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...