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FOOLBOOST, what do you think? Much of a difference in initial off idle torque between ours?

Probably best to wait until yours is tuned.. :laugh:

hehe im thinking the stock VL rb30 pistons give around 8:1 or maybe a little less, the motor is still quite torquey but not as punchy, yes have to bear in mind CUBES that she is fresh and still needs to wear in but my car would weigh a hell of a lot more then yours too which you can actually feel by driving it :), so that could be part of the difference, my car is prob around the 1600kg mark...

Edited by FOOLBOOST

Well yes I completely overlooked the weight issue. :D

I had another thought after I wrote that post.

I remember when I dropped the rb25det base maps and airflow flow reference in to my pfc, it did make it a little more punchy.

There was a definite difference between the rb20det base maps and the rb25det's.

Should be good once its all tuned up. :D

FOOLBOOST, what do you think? Much of a difference in initial off idle torque between ours?

Probably best to wait until yours is tuned.. :D

hehe im thinking the stock VL rb30 pistons give around 8:1 or maybe a little less, the motor is still quite torquey but not as punchy, yes have to bear in mind CUBES that she is fresh and still needs to wear in but my car would weigh a hell of a lot more then yours too which you can actually feel by driving it :D, so that could be part of the difference, my car is prob around the 1600kg mark...

Ow yes and another few things these are the differences we have to take into consideration:

1. Vehicle weight: CUBES 1350kg / mine 1600kg

2. Compression: CUBES 8.7:1 / mine 8:1

3. Turbo: CUBES Vg30BB 0.63 rear AR / mine Gt3540 0.82 rear AR

4 Tuning: CUBES tunned / mine DE tuned by CUBES :P Rofl

Yours seemed to be really punchy around 2k mine need more throttle then yours at the same RPM thats what i noticed and yours tended to react much faster and actually go LOL mine had the torque but there wasnt much after, must be the tuning!

Edited by FOOLBOOST

The comparision I was more interested in was just as the clutch is let out and idling along then giving the throttle a quick flick.

At this area in the rpm both turbo's aren't boosting nor do they have time to build boost.

In other words the throttle punch when you go from nothing to a quick stab. If that makes sense.

Its weight that is the killer.

I could most definitely feel the potential and was pretty damn impressed the way such a big arsed turbo spools on the 3ltr.

It builds boost quicker, hits earlier and has more meat under the curve than an rb20det running an rb25det turbo. :D

It felt to me it was wanting to hit hard a shade over 3500rpm so once all tuned up and it has some fuel pulled out (as they do run rich and yours was) it will feel pretty damn snappy. :D

Bu5ter is running one and has his rb30det spinning to 8500rpm.

They are around 1k.

I don't know alot about them but as far as I know the hp dampers are able to absorb harmonics/vibration over a greater rpm vs the std items that are tuned to a narrow rpm.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...sting/index.htm

and a couple of little links..

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemas...306mm_windsor2/

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...dampers/sae.htm

This following link is especially interesting..

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...amper_dinan.htm

After researching a lot on high hp twin cam rb30's i've come to the conclusion these balancers are a good thing on a high reving big hp rb30 setup. I actually have a brand new one for sale $1100ono in the for sale section, because plans changed. This has the underdrive water pump pulley kit as well. Retail is $1350.

Cheers.

Bu5ter is running one and has his rb30det spinning to 8500rpm.

They are around 1k.

I don't know alot about them but as far as I know the hp dampers are able to absorb harmonics/vibration over a greater rpm vs the std items that are tuned to a narrow rpm.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...sting/index.htm

and a couple of little links..

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemas...306mm_windsor2/

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...dampers/sae.htm

This following link is especially interesting..

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...amper_dinan.htm

anyone here seen a 3 way adapter that would fit in the oil pressure hole in the block?

i need to run the std sender, aftermarket guage sender and the VCT oil feed from here.

options are ;

to make one up

to run a twin adapter then another twin out of that

find one that has 3 oulets already.

couldnt you just use a 2way piece on your oil presure sesnsor hole on the water to oil cooler for both standard and aftermarket sensors, and a vct can then feed from the rb30 OPS hole on the block? or dont you have a water to oil cooler? (i thought all rb25s did tho?...)

-tom

couldnt you just use a 2way piece on your oil presure sesnsor hole on the water to oil cooler for both standard and aftermarket sensors, and a vct can then feed from the rb30 OPS hole on the block? or dont you have a water to oil cooler? (i thought all rb25s did tho?...)

-tom

there is an oil pressure hole on the std cooler?

since the std oil pressure switch/sender is behind the oil filter location, didnt think it would have one somewhere else.

havent had a close look at the oil/water coolers on the rb25s.

The oil water cooler we took of the rb25 and put it on the rb30 and i believe the std oil pressure sender hole was in the block. Its a series 2 block so im guessing s1 is the same. The only problem with the rb25 oilwater cooler is that it has a push on oring seal onto the block. The rb30 oil filter hole there has a threaded fitting to screw ur filter onto. Remove the filter fitting off the rb30 and then take off the rb25 one and put it on the rb30. Then you just push on the whole unit and bolt it up with some silicon or a gasket, whichever you choose. Then you can utilise both oil pressure sender feeds so your not teeing off everything from the one hole.

Hope that makes sense.

Guys I posted this in the RB26/30 thread but hope those here who have done the RB30 conversion might be able to help...

'What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a 'must do' but what else - 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you've overcome these.'

I figure that the RB30 into an R33 has to pose the same type of issues, can anyone here shed light on how they tackled them? The guide mentions ps pump mounting etc but there's not much on ancillaries and other 'detail'. Maybe it's a worthwhile addition to the guide if someone can come up with a list ?

Regards

Edited by Scooby
Guys I posted this in the RB26/30 thread but hope those here who have done the RB30 conversion might be able to help...

'What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a 'must do' but what else - 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you've overcome these.'

I figure that the RB30 into an R33 has to pose the same type of issues, can anyone here shed light on how they tackled them? The guide mentions ps pump mounting etc but there's not much on ancillaries and other 'detail'. Maybe it's a worthwhile addition to the guide if someone can come up with a list ?

Regards

exhaust does need a little to be added, i did a shonky and just whacked the tunnel a bit to accept the exhaust better!

The other things though don't get affected, well they didn't in my 32 anyway! The power steering pump was a slight mod to the bracket that took me less than 5 minutes, definitely not something worth worrying about!

The oil water cooler we took of the rb25 and put it on the rb30 and i believe the std oil pressure sender hole was in the block. Its a series 2 block so im guessing s1 is the same. The only problem with the rb25 oilwater cooler is that it has a push on oring seal onto the block. The rb30 oil filter hole there has a threaded fitting to screw ur filter onto. Remove the filter fitting off the rb30 and then take off the rb25 one and put it on the rb30. Then you just push on the whole unit and bolt it up with some silicon or a gasket, whichever you choose. Then you can utilise both oil pressure sender feeds so your not teeing off everything from the one hole.

Hope that makes sense.

heya,

was looking through a conversion site for an RB25 into a 240z (which i would love to do) and yeah i can see in the pics that the RB25 has the hole in the block but doesn't use it due to the cooler,

will use the std RB25 location on the oil cooler as you did, and use the block feed for the VCT .

cheers for the help :ermm:

well ive had my rb25de r33 head for about a month, finally got around to getin my r31 rb30 bottom end on the weekend. do you people know that the r31 rb30s use a 3 flat belt harmonic balancer?

also is there anyone out there making or herd of power levels that the R32 GTS4 manual boxes will handle? ive been trying to find info on these boxes but theres so much conflicting info on them that i have no clue as to what power they will stand up to. also tried lookin at what numbers stamped into them but after 1/2 an hour of looking at the box i just cant see anything stamped on them. anyone know where the number of the box is stamped on these boxes?

thanx

Dan

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