Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just got a quick question or 2 :mellow:

will intercooler piping that fits a rb26 engine fit a rb30/26 setup in the same car? or will i have to extend the pipes the 40mm or so?

can i run the rb30 size head bolts with a 26 head? (this is a throw together engine while i build my other engine on the side so i dont care how long it lasts so if i can get away with 30 sized bolts that would be good)

Edited by overpowered
Gary- The design is a fair compromise for room to make fit as i wanted to low mount the GT35. I wasnt too sure how well the wastegate pipes would work (again clearance limited) but it will run as low as 14-15psi boost. Im using a Blitz dual SBC to boost up to 17psi via the bottom port only, when i try and increase the boost more than this via the conrtller i get problems with unstable boost.

Im only running a 11psi spring in the gate, would this be the problem?? I have a 15psi spring to try.

I don't think you would have to change the external dimensions 1 mm. All you need to do is extend the collector away from the flange. All 6 cylinders have to have flowing access to the wastegate pipe.

The LOWER the boost, the BETTER the wastegate has to work. It has to allow MORE exhaust gas to bypass the turbine. Higher boost means less exhaust needs to be bypassed.

So, I don't think that the spring change will help much in controlling boost in this case.

:P cheers :dry:

just got a quick question or 2 :huh:

will intercooler piping that fits a rb26 engine fit a rb30/26 setup in the same car? or will i have to extend the pipes the 40mm or so?

can i run the rb30 size head bolts with a 26 head? (this is a throw together engine while i build my other engine on the side so i dont care how long it lasts so if i can get away with 30 sized bolts that would be good)

There is usually enough flex in the pipwork and length in the silicone joiners to accomodate the extra 38 mm of height.

RB20/25/30 head bolts are 11mm and RB26 are 12mm, despite the presence of locators, I would be reluctant to leave 1/2mm of float around the head bolts.

:P cheers :dry:

I've decided my RB20 is no longer going to cut it and I'm keen on breaking my engine building cherry :P

The basic plan is a RB25DE head with GTR valve springs and a standard RB30e bottom end. The car (R32 GTS-T) already has a RB25DET box :kiss:

Just so I'm under no disillusions before I start to collect parts -

Can a non rebuilt RB30E bottom end be expected to last at 270-300rwkw?

Is a metal head gasket and o-ringing a requirement for this kind of power with some reliability?

Can I skim the head (RB25DE/DET) a little to raise the compression closer to mid 8's without upsetting the quench zones? Likewise skimming the block to run a zero deck height?

Is it worth replacing the bearings and rings to after market items or will something else break first (rods?) making it a waste of money?

Will I need after market head studs like ARP's or will OEM do for this kind of power?

I think thats about it... :P

I know a lot of the reliability has to do with tuning but stock parts only last so long before they let go at high power levels. I'd honestly be happy with a responsive 250rwkw from a 'on the cheap' RB30 build but 300rwkw is my goal and probably the absolute limit for a R32 GTS-T anyway. I could probably do it from an RB25 but I want the extra torque to make a bit of a motorkharna weapon :)

Thanks in advance for the advice

Frost no doubt someone will confirm/deny but I think all RB26 valve train components are unique dimensions . Your call but the head will most probably make/break the final result . R33 and 34 RB25 heads have larger ports than R32 RB25DE and I would think R33 RB25DE heads would not be very expensive anyway . I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to not use VVT with a 33 DE head plus you'll need springs anyway . I dont think the weld mod to the water jacket would be expensive .

Just my 2c , cheers A .

Frost no doubt someone will confirm/deny but I think all RB26 valve train components are unique dimensions . Your call but the head will most probably make/break the final result . R33 and 34 RB25 heads have larger ports than R32 RB25DE and I would think R33 RB25DE heads would not be very expensive anyway . I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to not use VVT with a 33 DE head plus you'll need springs anyway . I dont think the weld mod to the water jacket would be expensive .

Just my 2c , cheers A .

seeing as its going into a 32 your better off sticking with 32 25de head! Makes everything easier.

ok here are the sheets.

Just got back from first day of the first round of the state championship round at QR. Was good, but I was expecting more cars to be there...seems alot of people pulled out at the last minute....odd.

post-12828-1174724807.jpg

post-12828-1174724781.jpg

We need a good boost controller. And a better setup suspension.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...