Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A 26/30 will be less laggy then any other rb, if you could buy a "new" rb30e and put a "new" rb25 head on it, and make 160-200rwkw, there is no reason it wouldnt last 300,000 if the tune was ok. Once you want big power, it changes, but only if you start stressing things beyond their capabilities, ther are a couple of 300rwkw rb30det's on here that have lasted longer than 60,000 and showing no signs of distress. If you have 400rwkw and thrash it every day, then it will last as long as an rb25 with the same power.

Consider I bought a previously unopened RB30 bottom end. All stock. Then I got a near new RB26 head, still with stickers on the heads lower surface and had been in plastic for a while with almost no carbon in the combustion chamber. Built with H beam rods and 9:1 comp pistons, without receiving the boost it makes on the twins (basically kept atmo for run in) it makes 160rwkw.

What do stock 25's make? Wait till this baby gets 18psi.......

Lag? I don't think so!

As with any question you might ask without giving enough detail. It depends. Put a V8 Mack truck turbo on and yes it will lag, but the right turbos for the application then it will be lethal.

Consider I bought a previously unopened RB30 bottom end. All stock. Then I got a near new RB26 head, still with stickers on the heads lower surface and had been in plastic for a while with almost no carbon in the combustion chamber. Built with H beam rods and 9:1 comp pistons, without receiving the boost it makes on the twins (basically kept atmo for run in) it makes 160rwkw.

Hi Geoff, do you remember what sort of revs yielded the 160 rwkw?

Cheers

I'm not reading 260 pages worth of stuff, when from what I've read so far of it (about 10-15 pages in) is mainly people going "OMG, that's great, I plan to do that too"

It seems more of an RB30 chatter then a technical guide

yes you just run an external oil feed to the gallery from your OPS feed. T piece from either the ally heat exchanger or from the bunged hole in the block and run it to a newly tapped hole in the front inlet side of the head where you can see a tube like casting running up the head to the inlet camshaft area. Make the fitting thats in the head feeding the gallery to have about the same size hole as the std feed from the rb25 block which i think is something like 1.6mm....but im probably wrong.

Though this is probably the biggest thread in the tech section, it would definetely have the most tech info available. Sometimes the chatter is techinical :thumbsup:

Hi Geoff, do you remember what sort of revs yielded the 160 rwkw?

Cheers

Mark I don't really remember. I just asked him to tune it to start and run at 60, 80 and 100 so I could run it in.

I'll be getting the bov and boost control sorted so I can have the tune redone soon. Should be interesting. Then it's time to throw it back at the track.

BTW I'm on skype, geoff.williams89 if you feel the need to chat sometime.

Hey Geoff

Did you get the cam gears installed ?

I got the 3.5 inch exhaust done last week, just finished installing a new 10mm fuel line, with new outlet on the tank cap today also.

So booking a tune in as soon as Matts available.

Trevor at custom exhaust specialists said I should pick up 20 - 30 rwhp on same boost with the new exhaust as the old 3 inch would have been maxed out. So looking at over 500 rwhp on 18 psi. But I want to tune it until it pings on 100 ron and then back her off a bit.

Will keep you posted.

PS. Hope your gonna blow or turbo the XR8, otherwise you are going to be very disappointed with the NA V8 :-)

No I've been busy since moving into the new place but maybe later this week.

The Falcon will stay pretty stock. If I want jollies that's what the GTR and racecar are for. Never try to make a silk purse from a sows ear. The ute is for towing a boat and racecar and work.

That thing of yours just keeps getting better mate.

Thats right - I forgot about the boat. Now I understand.

No I've been busy since moving into the new place but maybe later this week.

The Falcon will stay pretty stock. If I want jollies that's what the GTR and racecar are for. Never try to make a silk purse from a sows ear. The ute is for towing a boat and racecar and work.

That thing of yours just keeps getting better mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...