Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

thats good power but for that ammount of boost, i think there is somthing wrong

I tend to agree, a 3L with a gt34r running over 30psi and only making 360ish rwkw?

Are you sure all 6 cylinders are firing?

cheers guys.

firstly fuel car is running shell v - power 98ron pump fuel.

second. it has 2 in tank tomei fuel pumps wired seperately to two relays.both relays are working and both pumps are working

we checked that plus fuel pressure is 3.5 bar too.

graphs i will put up when matt @ the racing line finally gets the car to run..

2.17 bar is not what i will run

the car is mapped for 1.5bar 590bhp/540lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly

also 1.8bar 620bhp/585lbs @ 5500rpm @ the fly..

the graphs look like the evo graphs, torque and bhp follow each other to the top, car makes boost from 2800rpm climbs quick and steep from 3500rpm.redline at 7000

you are all right for that boost i would have expected 700bhp @ the fly and maybe 600lbs torque.cant understand why bhp is the same as torque.

when i get the graphs i will see more but at 1.8 bar it made 500bhp @ the treads which he says is 620 @ the fly..

bernie. any comments from you guys or tuners would help.

the electrical problem has got all the tuners baffled here.

if this helps the tuner, if you set the fuel map up say from 1000-5000 rpm and the afr goes from 15 at 1000rpm to 11 at 5000rpm, then let the revs drop back to idle. and do it again this time without altering anything at 1000rpm fuel is 20 and as you rev it up it goes up and down reaching 30 in some cases.>>>???? bernie

Edited by rockabilly

26psi.. 500rwhp so around 373rwkw + given its a 4wd dyno so saps just a tinny little bit more power out of the final figure.

Its close enough bah.. Only a dyno figure.

I'm sure it feels fast and will break 3rd gear if your not carefull. lol

What spec cams are you running?

With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

Edited by Alf
With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT?

Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

the bulky inlet cam is the major part of the vvt, so you would lose vvt by removing it.

If you want it to look like an RB20, then find an rb25de and put all the rb20 dress up gear on it.

It is the cam gear on the inlet side that operates the VVT - so removing it or the camshaft itself will stop the VVT.

You can run a std cam in the inlet with a std cam gear or adjustable one ( so you can use the STD rb20 cover etc ) but you will lose the vvt option.

Den001,

The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too.

That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range.

To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

i understand and agree with you totally, but look at the boost its running, thats big boost, for that amount of psi going thru the motor, you would think that the turbo would come into its own and it would be in its efficiency range by far..... have a look at the clip again... listen to the turbo ramping and then listen to the revs of the motor, there is not real much positive gain from the forced induction.... this is what i mean..

im not bagging the motor, it makes power, but the way it makes it is doesnt seem right, to me it seems like its a massivly decompressed motor obviously making the power but look at the boost its eating, it revs way to slow, it eats 2.1bar boost and all on 98 pump fuel.... this is the characheristics of a decompredded motor...

im building a 30/26 now, with 8.8-1 comp.. and i tell you when it comes on boost it will come on... and it will be a t04z with a 1.0rear.... and the aim wil be to make it rev like this machine....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caoHNZFufHU

this is how the engines should be set up... rb30 have in my eyes a very good rod ratio... 1.8-1. if you car rev out a 26 so hard there is no reason why you cant do it to a 30... especially with a twin cam head...

Considering its only a 600hp turbo 650hp isn't a bad figure. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...2R_714568_1.htm

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...